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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven The Baldman
Yeah that is correct as well, I had to look everything back up when I saw your reply to my post, I then realized I had not specified the correct generation. I was there to assemble and measure tolerances, that car was a blast though so many unsuspecting victims.
Welcome to GPF. :th_nanana:Quote:
Originally Posted by J57ltr
Maybe I should've been a little more clear I'm buying the spare basically to regasket and put a cam,heads ect on
you mean something like this? lol
my 109.000 new to me n/a. just spent 220 in fluids and gaskets, once i get the s/c heads ported ill rip it down and get to swapping all its gaskets.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...psppq38fod.jpg
Just throwing this out there,seems how people with rebuilds never do usually post back.I'm going on 15k with my rebuild in my GTP,as stated before,it can be done if it's done properly.But it does cost roughly 2 grand to do it properly.The line boring of the mains is a huge part, but so is having a round big end on the rods.That's what screws a lot of people as well,having oblonged big ends.Can't half ass rebuild these and get away with it most of the time.
Engines are a lot more precision these days than in days past. A lot of material is removed to save weight, so I could see it being an issue for joe shade tree. Any engine that makes more HP than displacement needs proper machining and checking. I check a minimum of 4-6 points per journal. Have the big end resized and line bored if needed. Bores are checked in a minimum of 6 places. Building an engine for a car like this should be part of the fun. If this is your daily driver the. Drop a short block in it and drive on. I just wanted the discussion to go farther than "it's not possible, you'll blow it up.
Jeff
To me, it sounds a LOT cheaper to rebuild your motor correctly than to:
1) Buy a used engine for $500
2) After installing it, find out that it has a rod knock
3) Getting another engine for $500
4) Having it break down after 10k miles
5) Getting fired because you are always missing work because of car problems
6) Getting divorced because you spend all of your weekends away from your family in the garage, missing time with your kids, and constantly whining about how much bad luck you always have with the car
etc...
If checking the rod big ends and align boring are all that's "tricky" or "difficult" about rebuilding a 3800, then for me it's a no brainer - I'm spending the $2k on rebuilding!
Getting a bad used engine is still cheaper. Ky engines are warranted for six months. And a full proper rebuild is still 2500 bucks.
Let me know how well that $2k holds up against a $500 used engine. Because chances are, unless you've done it a bunch of times (or whoever is doing the machine work,) it's gonna be a short lived rebuild. I have tons of engine machining experience, had a full machine shop, and still went with a used block vs rebuild. Why? Because L36 and L67 blocks have been known to go well over 300k when properly maintained. I've done the $500 (or less) engine swap on a lot of cars...not just 3800 powered. I've had worse luck with used 98-03 Honda/Isuzu 3.2L V6 than 3800.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobc455
yeah...until you price out a new gm crank....or you could get a reman crank....and have it snap on you and destroy 2k worth of parts.
even if your rebuilding....you need to get a good used engine anyways to have a good crank and good rods. cant resize the PM rods without expensive oversize shell bearings.
i believe eric still has his custom 4500$ two piece crank.
biggest problem is these engines are not designed for std babbit bearings, they only last when the aluminum bearings are in em.
the std oiling system mods dont hurt ether
Read this thread to see why rebuilding the block isn't as easy as some think http://www.3800pro.com/forum/superch...900-kit-2.html
That is good stuff, if it ain't properly machined it is wrong.
Like I just posted in the chatbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyguy03
It's simple as any other bare engine. It just takes the proper machine work, that most don't do.
It is what it is
Or is it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1adam84
That's quite correct, and just because you have someone machine your parts doesn't mean they did it correctly, that's where verifying everything after you get the parts back and inventory them. If they ain't right you have it done again if possible or you make them replace the part corrected to your specs they were given. If you don't have the tools to check this and ensure you are getting what you need to balance and blueprint the engine then don't touch it. But for those of us that do don't tell us you can't rebuild an engine without giving a reason, we will think that you don't know what you are talking about. Taking an engine apart and putting it back together isn't rebuilding an engine at best it's an inspection, at worst it's a disaster.
Jeff
Turbocharged400sbc is right, I had to get a junkyard motor for a crank, bought new pm rods,and I'm running aluminum bearings.Why the vendors all sell steel I haven't a clue.Doing it like this definitely isn't economical,lol.But it's part of why mines lasting.