ABS Wheel Bearing Testing

[mainecrab]

Hello,

I have been having to replace wheel bearing it seems every year. I replaced the passenger side 2 years ago and did that job twice since I bought a cheaper one that had issues only a month later. I told myself I wouldn't get a cheap one again and then having to do the drivers side so I thought since the ABS lights started coming on again and I had replace the passenger side with a TIMKEN unit I figured it was the issue on the driver side since it never been replaced.

So I replaced it with another unit that looked little better than the cheaper one and I got ABS light issues right off the bat. I then ordered another TIMKEN and when it got here the light stopped coming on for about 2 weeks. Hitting bumps and such didnt turn it on so I thought I would leave it until it started again then change it.

Cold snap and the lights come back on again so I take the time this weekend to replace the driver side. It feels better, the tire is messed up some maybe from the last bearing since it has wearing on the back side of the tire that resembles what happened when my tie rods when out and the tire was wobbly. This one is a used tire so I am going to replace that hopefully get rid of any issues there.

So now I am thinking I just replaced the newer wheel bearing when it was likely working fine. Instead of now assuming I want to test this correctly. I see there is a scan tool that can scan ABS as well would this work for this? I am asking as the light doesn't stay on it goes off when the key goes off and I restart the car back up. Or maybe since it does that intermittently is the harness itself? I checked the passenger side and the connection for the sensor from the bearing was tight and looked fine, or could it be the 2 year older TIMKEN bearing is bad again?

If I do not have a ABS scan tool anyone know how I can do this manually to try and find which one is bad without taking it to a place? Some say Advanced Auto has a reader for this, but would any reader read this after the light has gone off?

Thanks

Jason

[Jhart5]

Try to find a scan tool that can read the wheel speeds in real time. I believe they are $$$$ spendy.

[Scottydoggs]

a dmm can help you out, you unplug the hub, spin the wheel and touch the pins inside the hubs plug, see what the ohms are, do all 4 the one thats way different is likely bad.

you can also jack each wheel up lugs tight, then push and pull the top of the tire, if it moves the hub is failing. you can see the rotor move between the brake pads in the caliper if your not sure if its moving or not.

[stealthee]

I'm betting your issue is with the wiring itself.

[mainecrab]

Yeah I new see they make replacement harnesses as well for that and it can be an issue. Though I did experience the same issue before the wheel bearing went out so this really could go both ways. Though will go with a local replacement if it needs it again with a Moog part at Advanced Auto. The TIMKEN only got a 1 year warrany and well off RockAuto not like could get a replacement easily anyways.

So after work looks like going to be checking further.

[mainecrab]

Just a heads up for anything that may come across this. I decided to clean out the terminal connections on each ABS sensor and wire going to the ABS unit and after that I had no further issues. Makes me wonder if that cheaper bearing had no problem but glad I replaced it since the Timken made it feel better after getting a new used tire to replace that worn one. Guess just need to stock suspension parts until issues come up