Please at least check for the gap between the terminals man. I went through all this **** to only to find out a .03 cent steel washer fixed it.
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Please at least check for the gap between the terminals man. I went through all this **** to only to find out a .03 cent steel washer fixed it.
Hey Scotty - exactly which wire do I test for that you were talking about? Is it a wire that runs from the crank sensor to the starter? Or from the key to the starter?
I'll be diving this into this whole issue tomorrow - starting with testing that wire.
Also, how do I test it, just with a voltmeter?
Another detail I should add is this: like I said I had the starter tested, and it worked every time at AutoZone... Bendix kicked out and it cranked. However when we jump the starter by crossing a screwdriver over the two little bolts the starter cranks but doesn't kick the Bendix out to engage. Which to me is really strange.
That will happen if there isn't enough power to push it out.
If you can, try putting a voltmeter on the starter during cranking. If voltage drops to lower than about 10.5, figure out why (likely either a poor connection or a fried battery).
So, I think what I need to figure out is why everything in the dash shuts off when I turn the key. I solve that, I'm guessing everything works. Any ideas there?
thats 100% normal. its not your issue. they all black out the dash kill the radio and all. normal.
have you tested for power at the small wire on the starter yet when the key is at crank?
If you are talking about the purpleish wire then that one is getting no juice at all.
its the only wire with a small eye loop on the small stud on the starter. it only has power when the key to to start.
open the under fuse fuse box. check the map for the starter relay, locate it and swap the relay with the one next to it. see if that lets it crank.
Tested every relay in the car, they are all fine...
short of tracing the wire from the starter and looking for damage to it. im at a loss.
one thing you can do is to wire a new wire to the little stud on the starter, then run that wire inside the car to a 12 volt powered switch and you can flip the stitch to crank the engine over. key just has to be to run and it will fire up. turn the key off and your car is locked up and still safe.
good time for the push button starter mod.
Well I just direct wired the starter to the battery and it worked. So somewhere along that line there has to be an issue... Now for the fun of finding it... How do I access the ignition switch to check all the wires?
The battery + cable on stock 97-03 GPs is WAY WAY too long, it follows a very roundabout path to reach the starter. I don't know if your trouble is that cable or another wire. But a modification that allows a much shorter cable would be a great idea in my opinion. Theres a lot of un-needed length in the cable and as such, theres a lot more of it that can become damaged. I probably woudn't spend much time trying to locate and remove a smaller bad wire if you have isolated the issue. Just run another wire.
I would suggest you get a subscription to ALLDATADIY.com it will come in handy on showing you how to get to the ignition switch. Alldata is what alot of dealerships use to work on cars. It's pretty cheap too for a year per car is 18ish if you google a coupon code via retailmenot.com
Check all of your ground and power wires for corroding, cracks, ect. Replace as needed. This mod is also known as the big 3 if you are wanting to google and do that upgrade.
Well it sounds like running a push button switch for the starter would be the best choice... The idea would be to turn the key for ignition and push the button at the same time to start the car, correct?
turn key to run, then push the starter switch or button. if you get a switch it needs to be turned back, you dont want to run full time power to the starter.
you can get a simple push button switch for less then 10 bucks at the parts store. i wired one up on my friends lawn mower after the key quit starting it.
What amperage do I need.. 20?
it dont need to be large wire. its just a relay really thats being activated, no real power is being used from the wire. its just the power to tell the starter to work.
you could run a add a fuse from the fuse box to a key on only fuse to power the switch. this way the engine cant be cranked car off too.
Alright guys, got the push button start wired, and the engine fired up. Here is my latest question... When I put this engine back together I put a cam back in, since the old one was sheared, and I kind of had to.
My question is this: Do you guys follow the break-in suggested by Comp Cams? The hole half an hour between 2000-2500 RPM, then change the oil and everything... Is that really necessary? I don't really understand how a cam with roller lifers has any sort of break in period, since it doesn't actually ride on the bearings, but on a thin coat of oil, so there is no metal to metal contact. The lifters are new too, but I don't see how would have a break in either... Maybe I am just overlooking something?