Best way to pull Engine and Trans?

**durell81** · 10-01-2014

Good day everyone. I am new to this forum. I have been lurking for a while and I have finally pulled the trigger on buying a 99 GP GT. I posted for the first time a few weeks ago asking about a Tranny rebuild on a 01 GP GT I was looking to buy but the guy flaked out and never called back. Now to my question. I have read several post by BillBoost37 on how to pull the engine and tranny. He has info. on both options from the top or the bottom. I would like to hear from people with experience on which way they feel is easier to do? I will be doing this in a garage with limited space. I have all the tools I need except an engine hoist. I don't know if I want to invest in one because I really don't have room to store it, but if it makes the job easier I can shop for one on craigslist for cheap and get rid of it when I am done. Any input you can provide would be helpful. I have pulled engines before but it has been years and they were rear wheel drive.

**HighOctaneRacing** · 10-01-2014

Did it twice from the top. It's much easier that way in the driveway lol

**ADrugDealer** · 10-01-2014

We did it through the top on frostys car... I didnt get to help much but he had it out in a few hours...

**durell81** · 10-01-2014

Thanks for the input guys. Did you leave the sub frame inplace when removing from the top?

**HighOctaneRacing** · 10-01-2014

Originally Posted by durell81

Thanks for the input guys. Did you leave the sub frame inplace when removing from the top?

Yes that's why I did it topside cause I wasn't in the mood to drop the subframe with the engine and tranny and I also had an engine hoist

**BillBoost37** · 10-02-2014

If you search on my username and the word "ea sy" without the space, you'll find detailed instructions including tools needed. Enjoy

**durell81** · 10-02-2014

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. looks like I will be buying an engine hoist this weekend. I always say I will take pictures when I am doing stuff like this and forget. I will try to remember this time to post pics to help the next person.

**LHRxXD3adXx** · 10-12-2014

Like everyone already said i just got done putting mine back in. I would say remove your hood for better room and just take off power stearing,alternator,exhausts and coils and you should be able to take off the whole thing engine and trany together. Took my 4h to take out and about 3h to put back in and have it runing

**PurpleGuy** · 10-12-2014

Out the top is by far easier. I pulled a motor/trans by myself last week and I had them out, on the ground and split in 2 hours flat.

This last one I just did was wrecked in the front and didn't have any refrigerant in the AC system. The car is also being scrapped. So instead of screwing around unbolting the compressor I just removed the line and left it on the engine.

Other possibly helpful hints:
Get the hood off right from the get go. It has to come off anyway. Take it off first to make working easier
You have to go through the pulley on the p/s pump to get the bolts out
I find the easiest way to get the Cv's out of the trans is to use a 1/2" extension resting on the metal part of the cv closest to the trans and hitting the extension with a hammer
Unbolting the master cylinder will give you a little more room
I also prefer to remove the battery and flip the fuse box down in the battery tray
I unbolt the trans mount bracket Frees up some room. Makes it a lot easier to clear the ABS stuff

Also. While you have the engine out is a VERY good time to change the pan gasket of it hasn't been done. It's going to leak eventually and doing it in the car doesn't look fun

**Turbocharged400sbc** · 10-12-2014

yeah removing the subframe on a rustbelt car is asking for trouble so I leave them in and remove and install from the top nowadays.
you do not have to remove the hood, all you have to do is disconnect the strut rods and prop the hood open more the hood will open to 90 degrees for the most part

**PurpleGuy** · 10-12-2014

That's just asking to knock it over or damage it lol. But I suppose that would work too. It's only 4 bolts. I prefer to get the thing completely out of the way

**Turbocharged400sbc** · 10-12-2014

dude, duct tape from hood lip to the rear window, a rag on the end of the arm, a shotgun to put the car out of yer misery

you only have to get it open more than the struts for like the 1 minute your pulling the motor/trans over the core support. even a broad can stop making samiches and help do that ****

**GTPpower** · 10-12-2014

I rachet strapped my hood to a rafter in my garage to hold it straight up. Worked awesome.

**Turbocharged400sbc** · 10-12-2014

i once used a buncha balloons i stole from kids at the state fair

**GTPpower** · 10-12-2014

**BillBoost37** · 10-13-2014

I have never understood wanting to remove a hood for engine/trans removal. Takes two guys and then you have to line it back up. Screw that.. One guy can easily pop the supports and do the job w/o pulling a hood.

My garage being under the house had a beam.. jacked up.. the hood would get a towel tossed over the end and sit perfectly up against the beam.

**durell81** · 10-13-2014

So the engine is out. I am not going to say how long it took me because I ran into a few snags. The passenger side axle nut would not break free. even with an impact. And the CV joints did not want to budge so I rented the CV puller tool from AutoZone. But overall it was not bad. I followed billboost write up. Pictures are below. The reason I am taking it out is because the guy I bought it from said that the transmission has problems shifting gears once it warmed up. And it has an oil leak. I was afraid it would be the oil pan because it was leaking on the front passenger side. Sure enough once I got it out I saw a pool of oil inside of the engine mount right under the front of the oil pan. I am ordering gaskets today. What other gaskets should I replace besides the LIM gasket and the oil pan gasket while I have the engine out?

**BillBoost37** · 10-13-2014

Seeing that wheel bearing out.. that must have been a fight. Glad you got it out in the end.

Another tip.. remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the master cylinder to the booster and it'll pivot nicely right out of your way. Gives you a ton more room.