in the future i plan on doing a gen V swap. should i clearance my LIM for the gen V now? that way it'll just be a blower exchange/swap and i can leave the LIM in place. just trying to plan ahead and save myself some time later.
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in the future i plan on doing a gen V swap. should i clearance my LIM for the gen V now? that way it'll just be a blower exchange/swap and i can leave the LIM in place. just trying to plan ahead and save myself some time later.
I wouldn't, it might not have the best flow path for a gen 3, but probably won't make much of a difference
roger, i'll just get a gen V LIM when i do the gen V swap. thanks for your reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowTh1ef
I agree with all of the info in this thread. Thats a good thing considering I have done 4 top swaps in my life... in fact I have only ever gotton to play with 2 legit l67 engines for any extended peroid of time. Dont forget to budget for **** you forget. I recommend to budget 300$ for misc crap. Dont bother with the evap hoses. Just use your stock evap solonoid in the stock location and just use a piece of vac line to hook it to the vacuum tee on top of the blower.
Dont forget to "rebuild" your junkyard heads while you have them out. My favorite is to remove all of the valves, springs, retainers, locks and seals. Fill a tub with e85 and place both bare heads in. Scrub like your trying to please a woman. Then a little more. Inspect the hell out of them. After cleaning put them back together with fresh viton valve seals. I have done it this way for every top swap with great success so far. Snowtheif had the nastyist heads EVER and they cleaned up nice seen here. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...p-Bonnie-build!
A gen 3 wont seal once you open up the lim for a genV as far as I can tell from the parts laying around on my shelf. Just leave the lim alone for now and when you do the genV later spend 10 minutes with a grinder to open it up another inch for the genV blower outlet. Thats literally the only difference on a genV lim anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by randybill
Quote:
Originally Posted by frosty
thank you for the input frosty! have a good interwebs source for those viton valve seals?
zzp/wbody store/ intense all carry them.
i got a set of felpro viton seals for like 16 bucks at autozone. no need to crazy looking for em. any parts store should have them.
update- rewelding those damn obxr headers took up quite a bit of time. replaced all the slip fit connections with summit ball/socket couplers.
car runs awesome and still get same or better gas mileage as before. overkill did my box tune and it performs perfectly.
used a gps performance meter app on my phone and did a timed 70 to 80 mph blast and it took 1.9 seconds which seems pretty good to me. also installed a transgo shift kit- only did the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs and spacers from the kit.
now i'm looking forward to more mods but i doubt they will happen since this is actually my wifes car! so i won't be driving it much. the car puts a smile on my face now-something that it never used to do.
time to get the wife a another car lol
glad to hear its up and running good.
Sounds like she is a keeper if she let you do that to her DD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frosty
for sure. she's very patient with me and my projects!
next month i'm upgrading the brakes on her car. going with black c5 front calipers (gave her the choice of red or black) and 12" f body rotors. the top swap didn't add a lot of power but it feels like it needs more brake now with the speeds the car can reach now.
how can you say it didnt add much power? did you get a tuned pcm? you scanning for kr? you should feel a good power gain.
simply trying to be modest. didn't want to turn this thread into a power pissing contest. yes, i do feel more power but with no numbers to back it up, i simply understated that power that was felt/added. it feels like a 14 second car now-this spring i'll be taking the car to a local track to get some hard numbers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
i'm running stock m90 pulley, headers, 3" catless downpipe, heat range colder plugs and premium fuel- things i know help combat kr but i haven't scanned for kr. will any android scan app do that?
with a droid tablet or phone you can use the torque app and a Bluetooth obd2 port scanner.
blue tooth thing runs like 11 bucks, the app is 5.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
yep used torque last night- mostly tenths of a degree of kr. so i think it should be ok. saw 3 degrees once 1.2 degrees a couple of times. running 91 octane which is the most common premium pump gas in my area.
thats not horrible.
so no worries or more mods to help stop the kr?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
mods installed to help prevent kr currently- headers, 3" catless downpipe, 1 heat range colder plugs than stock gtp gapped at .45, cai inside inner fender, 180 degree thermostat and overkill tune.
or just use 93 octane if i can find it?
rockers may help, but in sure you'd benefit form a in car tune the most.
try the plugs at 0.50
just the 1.95 rockers on my car dropped 5* of kr when i was still stock,( i had 8*) so they do help the flow some for sure.
Another thought, while you're grinding down the LIM for a Gen V, you might want to plug the throttle body coolant passages at the same time. Makes blower removal cleaner and easier later.