Knocking problems

got a little update on this situation. Got a new sensor from a junkyard and soldered my wires. Then i decided to take the negative off the battery to reset the code. Turn the car on and after all of that and the darn light lights up instantly:th_angry2: drove the car around and still knocks around 3* at WOT. Also pounded out the firewall some more so that its not hitting for the kr. Also after i drove car around the block and turned it off again and turned it on a couple min later. it had a surging idle. Jumping between 300-1500 ish rpm. Havent had a vacuum leak when i left for school. MY dad said it has happened to him before.I didn't get a chance to spray carb cleaner or anything around to check but I dont think i have a leak. My questions are

1) Maybe a crossed wire when i made my extension caused this? I doubt i made a mistake like this but accidents happen.
2) Would using a different gauge wire mess with the sensor causing the code? The extension i made is a bigger wire. Does that mess with anything?
3) could the surging be because of this wire?

The car seems to run fine whenever i drive it and still pulls hard but still gets some knock. Gas mileage is down and sometimes i get a strong exhaust smell? Any thoughts? Any help is appreciated I am at school however so i cannot change make changes. oh and my dad does plan on getting an acdelco from rock auto in the near future.


Thanks,

Chris

and i believe the code is p1133 if i remember correctly

the idle issue, un plug the maf, then start the car, if it runs better the maf is bad most of the time. try tappin git when its running and plugged in, if it acts up when tapped its the maf.

no cat will make the exhaust smell rich. and welcome to the KR club lol i got the same set up with rockers and im knocking.

Still have the cat. I will have my dad try the maf deal.any ideas with the code part?


Thanks,

chris

http://engine-codes.com/p1133_chevrolet.html thats a bad o2 sensor. you should change that, check your o2 wires too. make sure they are not burnt on the headers.

It's not a bad 02 sensor really.

A brand new sensor can toss the same code. Read the codes description, it doesnt switch enough times during the one and only test the computer does. But 2 minutes later it can be switcing well over the number on times "was" needed during the test. If you watch it on a scanner it will still go up and down and up and down like normal. Very common after a header install because the placement of the sensor and way exhaust flows over it has changed so much.

so what is your suggestion?

alright so i was finally able to get a little work done on the car. I tapped on the maf and nothing happened with the idle. I Will try and use MAF cleaner tomorrow and clean it. I have not had a problem with the surging idle since and the car seems to run well. When i taped the wires after i soldered them i didn't tape them individually. Yes stupid me but i figured that out and fixed that. So then i deleted the code using torque app and drove it around some today. the check engine light is still off but i am getting some kr. I go from a couple pulls where its at .5 or around there and then I've had one pull where i got ~2 and then another where i saw 3.8 right before the shift. When i got out the car after doing a couple of these pulls i noticed a different smelling exhaust smell. It didn't smell like rotten eggs or anything. I am on a 3.5 with AL104's. (rest of the "mods" are in my sig too. I clicked on Test results in the torque app and these appeared. I have pounded out the firewall where the o2 sits and i can't see it hitting the tunnel.

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psdmtqd4nv.jpg

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psxrl5zclz.jpg

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...pstpdm4mq5.jpg


I have no idea what any of these mean and was hoping one of you guys would. I want to assume the cars running rich but i really don't know. I have a new acdelco upstream o2 sensor in the mail. my questions is, should this new 02 allow me to get back to my 3.4(knock wise)? Also, I don't know if i'm 100% confident to the plugs being gaped perfectly. I'm guessing this may have an effect on the kr? I am planning on pulling some of the plugs to make sure they're gaped around there. Am i on the right track with this or?


Thank you,

Chris

also does the IAT sensor position matter?

i dont even see a code. so if theres actual codes, please post them.

pretty sure the code was p1133.

http://engine-codes.com/p1133_chevrolet.html thats a o2 code. check the wires to it. if they look good maybe change it.

you got sd headers, good chance the wires got cooked.

DTC P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

Sniped ^

i routed them wayyy out of the way. where i made the extension, its soldered and taped. I have the junkyard o2 sensor in there right now. I just received the delco o2 sensor. I'll throw the sensor on later and see if it changes anything. If it doesnt change the kr where should i go from there?

make sure the headers are not hitting anything, as well as the o2 sensor.

hitting anything as in the firewall?

another question.. I have the IAT sensor wrapped around some wires thats close to the tb. I had it shoved into where the cone is attached to the tb but it was messing up the wires. Does it matter that its not directly in the flow but very close? I'm getting decent readings via torque app for intake temp

fire wall, sway bar, the cross over clamp hitting the rack, the rear header and the fire wall tunnel, o2 its self hitting the fire wall, if you didnt bash the wall in im sure thats hitting.

my o2 was nailing the fire wall hard enough to bend it. i moved it to the cross over pipe.

I bashed the o2 sensor that shouldn't be a problem but i didn't think about the clamps or anyting. That could cause false kr right?

it could, check your motor mounts, if the engine is moving a lot that could also cause KR.


i got my own KR issues, all started with sd headers being installed, i was at zero before they went on.........:th_scratchhead: