Thread: Knocking problems

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  1. #41 Re: Knocking problems 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris99gtp View Post
    we did not solder. we used butt connectors so that could be the problem? we did it on the o2 sensor harness.
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    HOW AN OXYGEN SENSOR WORKS

    The O2 sensor works like a miniature generator and produces its own voltage when it gets hot. Inside the vented cover on the end of the sensor that screws into the exhaust manifold is a zirconium ceramic bulb. The bulb is coated on the outside with a porous layer of platinum. Inside the bulb are two strips of platinum that serve as electrodes or contacts.

    The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It is hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail.

    The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust and outside air within the sensor causes voltage to flow through the ceramic bulb. The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading.

    An oxygen sensor will typically generate up to about 0.9 volts when the fuel mixture is rich and there is little unburned oxygen in the exhaust. When the mixture is lean, the sensor output voltage will drop down to about 0.2 volts or less. When the air/fuel mixture is balanced or at the equilibrium point of about 14.7 to 1, the sensor will read around .45 volts.
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
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  2. #42 Re: Knocking problems 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris99gtp View Post
    we did not solder. we used butt connectors so that could be the problem? we did it on the o2 sensor harness.

    you f ed up. butt things suck butt. you need to cut the cars harness plug off, then extend it. i just did a 3 foot extension for my o2. no issues.

    that o2 plug has a stainless steal wire, you cant solder it.

    new o2 extension.VVVVVV


    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #43 Re: Knocking problems 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I did that on my 97^^^^^^^^^^^^, for my 01 I just bought the zzp 02 extension harness.
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
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  4. #44 Re: Knocking problems 
    GrandPrix Junkie ItHurtz's Avatar
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    Im gonna say

    Sensor 1, exhaust leak somewhere
    Sensor 2, catless
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  5. #45 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    I'm not carlexx
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  6. #46 Re: Knocking problems 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ITHURTZ View Post
    Im gonna say

    Sensor 1, exhaust leak somewhere
    Sensor 2, catless
    If it was an exhaust leak his car would run lean and he would get the code P0171 for it.
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    Superchargers take away horsepower
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  7. #47 Re: Knocking problems 
    GrandPrix Junkie ItHurtz's Avatar
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    maybe he bent the sensor from the tunnel, been there done that.
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  8. #48 Re: Knocking problems 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I think scotty and I hit the nail on the head, he extended the 02 harness with butt connectors.
    2003 Redfire Metallic Chevy Tahoe Z71 - Airaid Modular Intake Tube, Flowmaster Exhaust.
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    Superchargers take away horsepower
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  9. #49 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    I'll check tomorrow
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  10. #50 Re: Knocking problems 
    GrandPrix Junkie ItHurtz's Avatar
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    meh, I used wire caps once because I melted it on the header, never had a problem.
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  11. #51 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    am I safe to drive the car right now? Until I have a chance to look at it?
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  12. #52 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    And can I just use an o2 extension or am I screwed now and can't do that
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  13. #53 Re: Knocking problems 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    I would just buy a new O2 sensor and either extend the car harness or buy an extension harness.
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  14. #54 Re: Knocking problems 
    GrandPrix Junkie ItHurtz's Avatar
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    car will be fine to drive.
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  15. #55 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    i just took a look at what we did. We made the extension coming from the main wiring not on the o2 sensor. I did it before where i would put an o2 sensor extension. What do i do since i can't use the butt connectors?
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  16. #56 Re: Knocking problems 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    buy a soldering iron, some flux core solder, and shrink tubes.

    if you got a HF near by the iron and tubes will cost like 6 bucks. the solder i get at the shack, 5 bucks.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  17. #57 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    Sounds good. I will do that soon and get rid of butt connectors. Also the first o2 looks kind of close to the tunnel. Going to pound that out a little more
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  18. #58 Re: Knocking problems 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i just re pounded mine too to the other day. its no fun with the headers installed. i used a 12 inch or so metal shaft with nuts on both sides. all i had was a roofing hammer, or a 10 lb little sledge hammer. baby sledge did the trick. but killed my arm.

    i saw a few vids of guys with headers and in reverse you can hear the o2 hitting. mine made the same sounds till i re pounded it better.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  19. #59 Re: Knocking problems 
    GTP Level Member chris99gtp's Avatar
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    Mine has a lot of room with the headers installed down there. It's just on a hard angle. I'll throw band clamps on there too. I think it's leaking where the crossover hits the rear header
    99 gtp- Burnt and gone
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  20. #60 Re: Knocking problems 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i need to have a friend power brake the car while i watch from under it. that way ill know if anything is hitting. at least see how much it moves under there.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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