Printable View
when the engine is not running the pump is not pumping fluid so no circuts get any fluid to lock or unlock the clutch which doesn't matter since none of the other clutch is engaged. but the differential and the output drive will still be turning at which point you need a pump to push fluid through the system and lubricate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by penright
as long as you don't have the f****** shifter in park you're good at that point lol
We were planning on doing this if we were to street drive a lot. Right now what I do is leave the engine running in neutral but I never go far without both engines running. The rear engine does not have heat problems at all. it runs 190F steady in 80F weather. I can leave it running. The front engine has a lot of strain if it's the only running engine even for cruising. It's best to leave both running it runs better that way although a little harder on fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
I will be forcing the trans in 2nd gear for launches. With more boost it will launch just as hard. When the front engine will be turbo, it will also leave in 2nd gear.Quote:
for short distances after being recently started and shutoff he should be fine since its mostly a racecar.
the Tq converters will stall as much as they need (slip) to equalize the load depending on the traction/load, that the beauty of a viscous tq multiplying drive. when launching the rear see's everything (one reason our 25.3 chassis is using 4x4 LCA hardware/heims and extra bracing)
so yer probably right the 1-2 did it in. but keep in mind that 400ftlbs is plenty to break a stock IS when the shock load can have the converter multiplying that up to 1000+ for a split second. plus without the rear driving a SC yer already 50+hp more than the front engine just from the crank not spinning it.
Thanks ! Yes it will probably motivate you to do a last push to complete your own crazy project.Quote:
you may want to look into the 3.71fdr 80e though i dont think it will clear your unibody rails, thats just a mallet and a few licks away....
looking good guys.
kinda make me pissed we havent gotten more done on the 442 in the 14 year build/rebuild/rebuild lol
AS for the 4T80E it's a heavy pig, and the weight is already an issue. I am genuinely worried about being able to slow down without a parachute. It will be hard to slow down from a 145 mph trap speed at 4500lbs + race weight on stock size GTP brakes. I'd love to go bigger but I won't be able to run my slicks up front.
Also how much wider is it from the block to the body ? I only have 2 inches between the trans and the rear frame rails or 1 inch between the factory trans mount gusset to the rail.
I regret not leaving some form of torque management now. I knew I'd be looking into a built trans when the power went up but not at this low power level.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkhorizon
We are swapping the trans now from the parts car to the twin engine. And I will do 2nd gear start and see if it can last in those conditions. If it doesn't the project will be on hold till I get a built trans.
We are likely switching to the rear as the primary powerplant... its built for low/mid range tq, so it is far more suited to moving the heavy car by itself than just the front engine which is set up for mid range and top end powerQuote:
Originally Posted by TwinV6GTP
while the 4t80e weighs 65 pounds more it is far stronger in every way Plus you should probably be tuning your engine braking tables to help at the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinV6GTP
you could probably fit in there just using a hammer
I hear you. I speaking to the one theory of why the chain broke or better said why it was ruled out as a possibility(front and back trans : gear ratio/actually selected gear at the time/size of tires/engines RPM). It was ruled out as a possibility because of torque converter slippage. My question was do they not "lock up" when commanded to? How does this effect synchronising the front/back? May still not have any thing to do with it, just asking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
Ouch. You could lay a long set of "burnout appearing" marks dragging the rear. Or at least as long as the trany held.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
Where is that table in HP tuners ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
Is it the downshift table at zero throttle position ?
What's needed on the electronic side to make it work ?
I read that you need to grind the block a little and make custom bracket for the K-frame which isn't hard to do.
Hpt sucks
Dhp/tiny/uv fer tha win
you need to do an inverter on one of the shift solenoids but Dave Norris at triple edge figured out the settings to use with the tech2 so that you do not need to invert the shift solenoid signal
so did you figure out a hand or left foot throttle yet?
Just added another throttle cable to the same pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
I can throttle the rear engine independantly for spooling up the turbo. I can't throttle the front engine independantly.
So I can shut the rear engine off and leave in Neutral while I do my front burnout, then I can do a rear burnout with the front engine still running.
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/x...psp5cwjazx.jpg
Oh god the car looks so ugly without the spoiler
Sent from the Milky Way
Search on Trans/info and my name. for that trans stuff.
At least there aren't any holes in the bumper....Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
you might want to go ahead and just put another gas pedal to the left of the brake
the car is a crap load more fun
speed holes... they were made to break from 11.0 to 10.9 but it didn't work lol on the parts car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jomamma
AS for the spoiler, it was removed to make space for vents but I have figured out something cool with the spoiler on, you guys will see soon.
I will for sure, we just did the quickest solution for now just to get running. The car is far from a complete project, it's just the beginning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
the rear engine bay air exits just fine out under the rear bumper into the low pressure area behind the car. on top of the trunk will not be nearly as good of an air flow path
That's where the radiator was going to go, in an angle with the fans blowing air through the trunk but we have it in front of the engine right now, with the airflow under the car, it stays pretty cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
keep it there you dont want that weight at the back of the vehicle. our new chassis is goin to only have the fuel cell that's at the rear of the car...it looks like we might be able to do saddle fuel tanks in front of the rear engine with the new radiator set up...but the fallback is at the rear...away from the driver lol
your goin two want to try to keep as much of the weight towards the CoG.
Very cool. Glad to see it at this stage. http://www3.telus.net/cbradley/Smileys/beer_cheers.gif