Belts took out crank sensor now no start

[YeahRight]

Well, the idler pulley for the supercharger belt seized destroying the pulley and eating the belt. In turn, it out it took out the accessory drive belt with it. I replaced just the accessory belt to get it home. A week later just driving down the street and the engine shuts off out of the blue. No check engine light, no sputtering, just off. Won't restart. No spark, no fuel injection. Has fuel pressure, pump runs the prime cycle. Replaced ignition module with known good unit. No start. Switched computers with known good unit. No start. I pull the crank pulley and sure enough there is a strip of belt wrapped up around the triggers and the crank sensor has physical from the belt. Ah-ha! Replaced the crank sensor. Still no start. All wiring appears intact & unharmed.

What am I missing here?

Car is 00 GTP.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

So its got fuel and spark but wont start. Right?

[YeahRight]

No. No spark when cranking. Has fuel pressure to the rail but the injectors don't cycle when cranking.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Maybe the belt hit the coil ground wire on the stud under the coil bracket

[MoarkatsINmuhtrailer]

Maybe the belt hit the coil ground wire on the stud under the coil bracket

my thought

[YeahRight]

Just walked out there to take a look. The one behind the SC tensioner right? Ground wire attached & appears undamaged. Haven't put a meter on it to check continuity.

[The Guz]

Sounds pretty similar with what I and my brother are trying to figure out.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/03-to...art-71093.html

[dsmuts]

Did it damage the tabs on the back of the hb?

[YeahRight]

The tabs were undamaged other than being dirty from the ground up belt.

Also, checked all fuses and they're good.

My next step is to check continuity looking for a broken wire in the crank sensor harness.

[Elrodd384]

My lower motor mount collapsed on my 99 GTP which took out my inner CV boot, twice, which took out my crank sensor lol. super easy to replace and only cost me 15 bucks shipped

[YeahRight]

Yes, we've already covered that I replaced the crank sensor. Something else is wrong & that's what I'm looking for ideas of places to look.

[BillBoost37]

I think you are on the right track with checking wiring. Only other thing is...double check that you plugged the new sensor in. I see a lot of people that forget it.

[YeahRight]

Ok... out of ideas. Unplugged the crank sensor (yes, Bill it was plugged in) and unplugged from the ignition module. Used a meter to test continuity. All 4 wires have continuity up to the module from the crank sensor. I know 2 of those wire share power/ground with the cam sensor and the trigger wire on the cam sensor is the only wire of this bunch I haven't checked yet. PITA to get to the cam sensor it looks like...

[BillBoost37]

Stand in front of the car and follow the water pump pulley down to 7 o'clock (as if you were in front of it) and you'll have the connector in your left hand. it'a about an inch away from the pump.

Another thing I'd consider is rechecking for spark and fuel. It might be that you primed the cylinders so many times that your plugs are now wet.

[YeahRight]

Thanks for the description on the plug, Bill. Went right to it. It checked out fine, continuity in all wires in that harness. So, that's a bummer. Does anybody think it could be the cam sensor? I'm not a fan of throwing parts at things. I guess I need to dig up the procedure on how to check the sensor. I'm not 100% convinced the new crank sensor might not be faulty.

Nope, zero spark or fuel injection triggered. Could it be the oil pressure sensor? That's the only other sensor in that area of the engine I can imagine that could have been damaged somehow. Would it cut fuel & spark from the computer if it doesn't see pressure? I was thinking it only cuts fuel since it needs the spark to start the engine from the fuel pump prime.

Beyond that, I'm back to the computer or some wiring between the computer & ignition module. The module has power.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Our oil pressure sensor is more of just a dummy light, thats all it does. Tells you when the motor has 5 psi of oil pressure = dead.

So, I'd rule that out.

[BillBoost37]

Nothing cuts the fuel prime. When you turn that key, you are supposed to hear the pump run for a couple of seconds and the cylinders get primed. That's why I suggested checking/drying the plugs. I figured after trying to start it 100 times..the plugs might be wet.

The relay center or wiring at the edge of the body didn't take a hit, did it?

[YeahRight]

Relay center appears fine. All the fuses in it checked good.

I get no injector prime when the key is turned on. Fuel pump runs but no injector cycling. They have power.

This brings me back to a computer problem. It's not telling the injectors or coils to fire. Is there any other system on the car that tells the computer to lock out fuel & spark? Any ideas on how I could troubleshoot the computer? I've already checked to see that all the grounds in it's harness have continuity & it has power when the key is on.

[BillBoost37]

I'd need to research further, haven't heard of anything. Our engines will start with the oil pressure sensors unhooked. Only other thing that might keep it from working is the oil level sensor (front of oil pan by radiator) That's a guess though.

[YeahRight]

Ok... I had to let the car sit for awhile or I was going to push it out in the street & light it on fire! Still absolutely no idea what's wrong. I did notice something tonight. The SES light doesn't come on when I turn the key to the on position. I would the the BCM is still recognizing I'm turning it on because everything else on the dash lights up. I don't think it's security related because the light comes on & goes off in a second. When I crank I get no movement of the tach at all & I would think I'd at least see something. Same with my Torque app. It shows 0rpm while cranking. I think I'll check the tach wire tomorrow. Any other ideas?