Printable View
I had this same problem, and used the button in the steering column for some time, to remove the key. Yesterday I pulled off the center console cover and pulled apart the wiring harness leading to the shifter sensor. Inside I found residue that appeared to be Diet Coke...LOL. Once that was cleaned and a little wd-40 into the connection, everything is working perfectly. Needless to say, the wifes not allowed to drink in the car anymore....lol.
:) :)
I thought that when your abs light came on on the dash, then your abs wasn't working? Because my light goes on and off every once in a while and and I assumed it was because of a bad connection in the plug behind the front drivers wheel. The reason for my assumption is I had to replace my driver side - drive axle just over a year ago (think thats what its called) which I think I have to replace again, and its been coming on and off since then.Quote:
Originally Posted by beast55
My ABS would come on radomly on my 98 Monte Z34. This happened for almost 6 months before my alternator finally gave out. Once the alternator was replaced, it has not been on since.
Just solved this problem.
It started when I couldn't remove my key. I used the under steering column trick. Then yesterday I couldn't shift out of park(with out using the manual over ride). So this morning I took my console apart. What I found was a broken wire in the wire harness that plugs into the BTSI. I repaired the wire connection and replaced the fuse. ALL IS WELL. I can now shift from park again and remove the key after shifting back into park.
Hope this will help some one. I know it's not a cure all. But just some thing else to check out.
Over & out,
as for the key issue. i had the same problem for getting the key out. as it turned out, the plunger was dropping too far down when the ignition was turned on.i just used a small hose clamp wrapped around the solinoid, the same as tape. have never had a problem since.
i have a question about the traction control. is there a way to reverse the control so it is off all the time and needs to be turned on manually?
also, my air bag light is always on, normal?
EDIT: Go here: http://www.backinblackgp.com/TRAC_Button.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by Ironwarrior
Uhh...no. It should have a DTC associated - you can go to any AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts store and they can pull/print the code(s) for you. Could be:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwarrior
DTC 13 Driver Air Bag Deployment Loop Short to GND
DTC 15 Driver Air Bag Deploy. Loop Short to V
DTC 23 Pass. Air Bag Deployment Loop Short to GND
DTC 25 Pass. Air Bag Deploy. Loop Short to Voltage
DTC 31 Driver Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resistance High
DTC 32 Driver Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resistance Low
DTC 33 Pass. Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resistance High
DTC 34 Pass. Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resistance Low
DTC 75 Driver Side Air Bag Short to Ground
DTC 76 Driver Side Air Bag Short to Voltage
DTC 77 Driver Side Air Bag Deploy Loop Resist High
DTC 78 Driver Side Air Bag Deploy Loop Resist. Low
DTC 85 Pass. Side Air Bag Short to Ground
DTC 86 Pass. Side Air Bag Short to Voltage
DTC 87 Pass. Side Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resist High
DTC 88 Pass. Side Air Bag Deploy. Loop Resist. Low
Or...something like that. ;)
-Swash
Wow, good timing for me to stumble on this forum. I just picked up a 1997 GTP and am having the problem with the ignition key intermitantly not coming back to the off position so that I can't remove the key. I recognized this as probably being a common problem beause the last 97 GTP I had also had this problem. I assumed it was a problem with the lock cylinder so I picked a new one up today and while searching for the procedure to install it I stumbled upon this forum.
I'm probably going to give this car to my daughter so I'll probably replace the part rather then just remove it but at least I now know what part it is. Anyone purchase one and know the cost? Is it a dealer only part?
Now I'm going to throw a little wrench in this - another problem the car has is the heater blower motor only works on high. I know that typically this is caused by a bad resistor so I replaced that and it did not fix the problem but here's the interesting part. When I move the fan switch from off to positions 1,2,3 or 4 I hear a click in the dash near the headlight switch and the running lights go out as does the information center display. When I move it to postion 5 the blower works, the info center comes back on and the running lights come on. Flip back to any other postion and they go out again.
Could this be related to the ignition switch? Any ideas?
Some people have had a faulty ignition switch cause problems with the blower motor. They can do a lot of weird things when they go bad.
So thats what it is!! I've been wondering why my car does that. There have been a few times I have had to just take the remote and lock the keys in the car. I hate when the key gets stuck.
Take that lock solenoid out and never look back.
my mom's 02 Grand Prix is having the same problem. I took the bottom cover off the steering column, got the bolt out connected to the solenoid, unplugged the selonoid, but still can't figure out how to get the solenoid out. Do you have to take the top cover off the steering column? Is it connected by a screw or something else at the top?
There is only one bolt in the selonoid. I had to pull pretty hard.
My wife has a 2002 Grand Prix which had the following symptoms for many months...
1) Could not remove the key from the ignition (unless release button pressed under the ignition switch)
2) Could not move the gear shift out of Park (unless release button pressed next to the gear shift lever)
Being an engineer I decided to find the root cause of this problem to avoid the classic trial and error approach. The first clue to the problem was the voltage on the BTSI fuse in the back of the glove box. The voltage on each side of the fuse referenced to ground measured about 5 volts with the engine OFF. It is suppose to be the same voltage as the battery (ie. 12 to 14 volts). Examination of the circuit revealed the voltage drop was caused by a poor electrical contact in the ignition switch. I purchased a new ignition switch (AC Delco D1491D Switch Assembly from Amazon for $67.15) and successfully installed it myself following instructions found at automotiveforums.com.
Note this assembly is an electrical switch/wire harness located in the steering column just behind the ignition key. Replacement is not too difficult but the task is not intuitive and the instructions are a definite requirement. Now the key and shift lever work perfectly and my wife is happy. What could be better than that?
I hope this helps others with this problem. It appears to be very common on Grand Prix cars. Good luck!
Had this problem for the first time last night. Had to leave keys in the ignition overnight. I disconnected the neg connection on the the battery to try to keep the battery from going dead. Today I found this forum and hit the solenoid buton to get the key out. Then with the barrery reconnected I noticed I had no power to anything. I then checked the battery and it was completly dead. I charged it to 90% then tried starting the car- nothing but a stuck key again and no power put the charger on again and it read as 25% charged. Its got me baffled any ideas?
Low battery voltage can cause the key to stick in the ignition (not enough voltage to energize the solenoid that releases the key). I think the key stuck in the ignition is a symptom and not the problem. It sounds like you have either a bad battery, charging system, or something is drawing current when it shouldn't. Good luck!
Battery replaced within last 2 years -original lasted that long- didnt have that problem with the key when it died- Battery went from 90% charged to 25% by just trying to turn key and then the key wouldnt come out again- but ay 25% charge (according to my battery charger) it should have enough to engage a solenoid- but nothing would work again- but what could draw that much charge in seconds? No sound of anything engaging or drawing current.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
does anyone know how to remove the ignition lock cyl on a 98 gtp??
the ignition switch is causing most of these problems. my 1997 GT was acting all sorts of funny. before diagnosing and replacing the harness:
- key would not come out of the ignition without overriding the button on the solenoid
- the shifter would not move unless the shift lock override was pressed.
- blower would only work on 5
- automatic lights would also only work when the blower was in 'off' position or 5
got the ignition switch for $80 at rockauto.com. took just about two hours from disassembly to testing and seeing which of my symptoms were fixed. all the symptoms listed above were corrected.
Awesome how to on this issue. Just popped mine off and problem solved. :-)
i just started having this issue. going to attempt to fix it tonight