Thread: Maintenance gone wrong - wires/plugs - NOT RUNNING

I know this is a boring topic but I'm in need of help, desperately.

2007 GT - 89000 miles. Wires came out - with a huge effort and cut hands - plugs came out quite easy and did not break while being removed.

New wires - Autolite, stock. New plugs - Autolite 606 gapped at .060. Small amount of anti-seeze on the plug threads. Plugs went in fairly easy, except for the one I snapped, removed and replaced with another one (obviously). Did not torque to death by any means. New wires went on, with spark plug grease. I have checked the firing order over and over. All connections secure.

When it starts, it start strong and about a second after, sounds like death. Roughest idle - surging - running rich - gets close to dying then sputters back to life...checked firing order again - everything fine - etc etc. Each cylinder is hot after running - but it's running rich.

What am I missing - could I have cracked a plug putting them in? Bad wires??

I have the old plugs - and am thinking about putting them back in and seeing if this fixes it. Is copper a problem? Everyone here says they're the best to run.

Thank you for anything and everything.

Warren

Try removing that grease.

You taking about the di-electric stuff I put on the plugs/into the wires?

Originally Posted by HEVEYMETIL

You taking about the di-electric stuff I put on the plugs/into the wires?

Yes, too much can cause issues.

Were the posts on the coils corroded at all?

Originally Posted by Explicit_Spade

.60 gap? Seems pretty big to me...

Originally Posted by HEVEYMETIL

Autolite 606 gapped at .060.

That's the factory spec. Reread it Brian.

Interesting. I noticed the boots were already greased, but I didn't think twice about adding more.

And am I right in assuming that switching from Iridium (stockers) to copper should NOT cause these problems?

Originally Posted by Ginseng

you shouldnt of added grease and yes you could of cracked a plug and i gap at .055 for al 606s and yes copper is better because it exchanges heat better for supercharged cars to help fight detonation

it helps to have a scanner to see whats misfiring also..

Perhaps I will drop the gap a bit to see if that works, AND use a qtip or toothpick to remove the excess goopy grease. I wonder if AdvanceA will let me use their scanner ...

Originally Posted by HEVEYMETIL

Perhaps I will drop the gap a bit to see if that works, AND use a qtip or toothpick to remove the excess goopy grease. I wonder if AdvanceA will let me use their scanner ...

There is no way changing the gap 5 thou is going to make any change this significant.

If this was happening at full throttle, then yes, tightening up the gap would help.

But this is at idle. If the coils can't fire the plugs at this gap, either the coils, ICM, wires or plugs are bad.

No, not in the slightest.

I would look over the vacuum lines and other sensor connections such as the MAP as well. It's possible something was damaged while working and is now causing this issue.

I didn't respond to your other question: the coil posts looked fine to me, clean and un-corroded.

My buddy said the same thing about the connections. I did rock the engine forward to access the back plugs. Everything seemed in placed. Is there a connection I should check that I may have missed, that may have come undone?

I've stopped for the night because fatigue is setting in and I feel like I'm missing something easy. I appreciate all the advice in the meantime.

Originally Posted by Ginseng

also jusdt to make sure your firing order is 1,4,5,2,3,6 bottom to top on coils and 1,3,5 on front and 2,4,6 on back

Also note plug on cylinder 6 cracks often do to putting socket on crooked from front o2 sensor

I will never understand why they designed it that way..

I bought a 1.5 3/8 extension tonight which worked way better for the fronts - what do you suggest for Plug 6??

Originally Posted by dbextreme

Could the MAP sensor been jared?? With it above the #2 and arms down behind it pulling and jerking it could have gotten hit and the vacuum unplugged?? Just a thought..

Please tell me this is what we're referring to, and excuse my ignorance...

<a href="http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Warren_Teall/media/IMAG0802_zps0d7ae2b6.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/Warren_Teall/IMAG0802_zps0d7ae2b6.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0802_zps0d7ae2b6.jpg"/></a>

Originally Posted by dbextreme

Could the MAP sensor been jared?? With it above the #2 and arms down behind it pulling and jerking it could have gotten hit and the vacuum unplugged?? Just a thought..

Thanks to all of you, especially dbextreme for narrowing down the problem exactly.

Got the new MAP installed and after figuring out that the other MAP is used for a baro-sensor, the car started, choked for a second, then fired right up into an excellent idle. Everything seems back to normal, but I'm of course worried that I damaged something in the process. Idle seems great, car heats up, no funny smells - I think we're good to go.

Thanks again, guys.