Got my catless down pipe today, I ordered one with a forward bung hole,it looks like I got a rear bung at end of straight end towards rear. Do I use the rear 02 sensor ? Or an extension for front sensor to reach rear ? Thanks for your time.
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Got my catless down pipe today, I ordered one with a forward bung hole,it looks like I got a rear bung at end of straight end towards rear. Do I use the rear 02 sensor ? Or an extension for front sensor to reach rear ? Thanks for your time.
Use the rear bung for the rear o2 and the front bung for the front o2. Or did it not come with the bung for the front o2?
Assuming you have a 02 gtp your front o2 should be in the rear manifold. Does your rear not reach?
I ordered one with one forward bung and got one with just one rear bung.
It may have been a universal so you can cut a section of the downpipe out and install a cat on your own so you can utilize the rear O2? My downpipe with my headers have no cat but they have a front and rear bung with bolts (plugs) filing the holes.
Do you have emission testing? There are options to eliminate your rear O2 if needs be, but if your rear O2 is reading the same signal as your front one it will trigger your SES light. An O2 Emulator will fix that or have your PCM tuned to remove your rear O2 readings.
Your downpipe should not have a bung for your front O2, it screws into your rear manifold right before the flange.
Just got 02 gtp 40 anniversary car, haven't been under it yet. I'm confused. Do I have my front and back mixed up ? I assume that the pipe with the rod welded to it that hooks to rubber rings was the rear, is that right ?
That is correct, and your rear bung should be right before that...
Couple questions where did you order it from? And why did you get a downpipe? Headers are cheep and would be better in the long run.
Last edited by Slick2500; 03-15-2013 at 09:23 PM.
It's a bolt in down pipe. So the front 02 sensor plug on factory exhaust goes to the rear end of down pipe ?
No, the front 02 stays in the rear manifold dont touch the front 02 just leave it alone. The rear 02 goes into the rear end of the downpipe. And read this thread so you can get rid of your CEL for cheep $5 o2 cheater/non fouler how-to - evolutionm.net
Wbody. Not making a race car just wanted a little more hp and sound. Reprogrammed PCM 3.4 pulley, 180 stat,104 plugs and 139.00 catless down pipe with no u bend seemed reasonable, it all comes down to money. Just bought it for $ 7,500, I'm not loaded after my divorce in Sept.
The front O2 goes into your rear Manifold... It's dark out but here's a pic of it...
Here's the Rear (can't see it but it's sticking straight up toward the floor board but you can see the bung)
Um, you gonna scan that? I had kr on a 3.4 with headers 180* tstat 104s and ported blower. If your running just a downpipe unless you can scan your car I would not run below a 3.5 pulley just saying.
And read this thread before you start modding stuff. http://www.grandprixforums.net/safel...0-a-67580.html
And idk what is up with headers right now but the price they are asking is ridiculous. I paid $200 for mine new, right now they are $438......
Last edited by Slick2500; 03-15-2013 at 09:43 PM.
Prepare for crappy gas mileage if you are running no cat, the car will throw a SES light for a rear o2 inefficent code.
A 180 thermo is a waste of 10 bucks, you wont anything going from a 195 to 180.
104's would be far too cold aswell. AP 605's would be a better choice.
And a way to scan the car for KR and codes, I'd say the car will knock with a 3.4 and only a downpipe/canned tune.
Thanks for the pics.
When I send my PCM in for reprogramming, wont the 3 degree timing advance take care of that ?
Throwing lights, won't my reprogrammed PCM take care of that ? Went by what w body stated on their site when I ordered my catless down pipe, site said use 180 stat n 104's ?
Its hard for me to explain what they would really do when you may not know how the PCM works.
The car being a 01+ needs to have the rear o2 there to work correctly, the tune for the PCM can get rid of the code, adjusting timing numbers won't change that.
Their website is wrong and so is ZZP's on the correct way to mod cars. Adding a 180 thermo and 104's plugs is a waste.
If you want to have the place change the fan settings to 180, then run a 180 thermo, but its really not needed. AP 104 spark plugs would be far too cold for that mod level, you always want to run the hottest spark you can. Thats why AP 605's are better.
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