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Um, not sure on fuel mileage LOL, I have a somewhat heavy foot. I did however notice that lights all around got brighter, windows went up faster, stereo sounded better and at night the headlights don't dim as bad when the sub hits hard. For fuel mileage I noticed big gains when I did my LIM gaskets a week ago. just hope this little trick helps someone out with slow/ slower window regulators.
Did you terminate the wire yourself ? Or buy a pre made cable ?
Can you show pics of the installed connections ?
Bought a pre made cable for $5 from parts store, will take pics here in a bit when I go to the chow hall, BBL.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTP in RTP
How did you gain mpg from doing the lim? :th_scratchhead:
Remember to disconnect your battery before doing this, just in case!!!
1. get 4 gauge or bigger pre made battery cable from parts store, cost around $5+/-
2. disconnect your battery.
3. Take nut off of positive post up on strut tower.
4. using two wrenches take off nut on back of Alternator.
5. run new cable from back of alternator to the post on strut tower
6. tighten nut on back of alternator using two wrenches, one to hold post and one to hold nut.
7. tighten nut on positive post on top of strut tower.
8. reconnect battery.
9. enjoy faster window regulators, etc etc.
Remember that electricity takes the path of least resistance, so you can leave your stock wiring in. If you want to go further into the big three use fuqing GOOGLE or the search bar at the top of the page cause I'm to lazy to type it all up. This is one of the first things I did for this car and it's too easy. HOPE this helped with some of yall's slow windows.
Here are some pics for reference
Positive post on strut tower
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...altrewire1.jpg
Run cable along firewall
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...altrewire2.jpg
Back of alternator
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...altrewire3.jpg
Back of alternator
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...altrewire4.jpg
Complete
http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...altrewire5.jpg
I had multiple small vacuum leaks and it also needed to be done, I put on all new gaskets for the SC, TB and LIM. Also new o-rings for the injectors. Painted the SC and fuel rails. On the long trip (336 miles) from Fort Polk, LA to Fort Hood, TX I used to get 25-27mpg doing 70mph. Now I get 28-31mpg on the same trip after the LIM gasket change. Using the nice fel-pro aluminum gaskets.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1GTP
Interesting, my lim needs to be done even though it's not leaking just yet. My valve covers leak so I might as well do that at the same time. It'll be a summer project.
Definitely going to get the cable soon and see how my window reacts to it. New motor and regulator is already on it's way though.
Do the LIM gasket bro, I put mine off for many months and glad I did it when I did. Also put new vacuum lines in, got full boost now. I have new regulators on 3 of my windows, still have to do the rear left one (no rush though LOL). New parts always work best IMO, although my master switch went out and got luck picking one up at the pick and pull for $17.
I'm not too worried about it, plus it's getting into the 30s here...too cold to tear it apart. Plus it's my daily driver, I'll have my toy out in the summer so I'll do it then and take my time with it, probably paint the SC and fuel rail like you did, valve covers too.
I'll update the thread with how my window works after the cable.
Hope it works for you like it did for me...twice, also did this trick on my 97 GT.
Yea we'll find out, my window has a weird issue though, it's not necessarily slow.
You won't gain mpg with the Big 3 mod. The Big 3 is most popular in car audio applications in order to recharge your battery faster so your voltage won't drop too low. I highly doubt it will help your window speeds - although I'm sure some will swear by it.
Replaced your regulator, or just your motor. They are cheap - you can get the whole assembly for $30-$50.
Do not put grease on the black rubber weatherstripping - It will just get all over your windows.
The lines they are talking about are on the metal piece that was previously posted. Take your door panel off and roll your windows up and down. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what needs greased after that.
I just got the regulator and motor today, hopefully this solves my issue since I haven't heard of anyone else with the same problem I'm having.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bologna
I'll grease things up while I'm in there, on the passenger side also.
Wow, motor and regulator was easy to replace, took under an hour. Issue is resolved, and I also greased the lines.
4 gauge cable should be coming today so hopefully the passenger window speeds up from that. It's not slow enough to replace it at this point though.
Good stuff, taking off the door panel takes longer than the regulator haha.
i need to go get a exhaust hanger tomorrow, so i may see about the 4 gauge wires as well tomorrow.
I'm just waiting on the connectors for the 4 gauge wire...
im just hoping i find a 2 foot length with ends on it already. i don't want the added expense of buying the ends and soldering them on.
I'm not sure, but I think the cable I used on mine was 4ft. and had the ends already on it.
i was looking at it today, did not use a tape measure, but it looks like a 24 inches would do it.
i know they sell these cables with ends already as ive bought them in the past, i added a extra battery to my truck, and snow plow up grades. used the same cables. everything i used was pre made, from 6 feet to 2 feet.