Thread: Car still vibrates....please help

Have you checked the sway bar end link connections and make sure it has not broke or is in good shape? If not, take a look there. I chased a vibration forever in mine, though mine was straight line driving with a vibration between 45 and 55 mph, but I replace upper motor mounts, lower motor mount, tranny mount, inner and outer tie rod had TWO four wheel alignments done and still had the vibration. Turned out to be one of the axle shafts. I replaced them both so I was not able to tell which it was but I suspect that it was the passenger side and Ive often wondered if it was not the reason my differential met its demise not too long after.

Might also check your lower control arm bushings as well.

The sway bar connects to the lower control arm via what is called an end link. But what you have added leads me less now to believe its the swaybar but I would still check it just to be sure. There have been instances of them snapping but I dont recall that they caused vibrations as much as a sloppy feel in turns and some thumping sounds at acceleration.

What you are describing with the floating up and down and then it vibrating on the down side, that could be a shock/strut issue, ball joint, axle or the lower control arm bushing. I dont know of anyway to isolate it or I would try an do that for you. Do you have any uneven tire wear? If so, describe that for us.

If its the ball joint, thats going to be fun to replace as they are riveted in the lower control arm and you have to drill out the rivets and they are hard unless you have air tools and an air chisel might make it faster.

Anyway, hope some of this helps out. Id pull the tire on the side that is vibrating and just look over anything and see if you see anything clearly broken, bolts missing, signs of grease somewhere, things like that. The more details you can provide the better we all will be able to assist you.

He'll need more than socket and wrenches to get those ball joints off, Ive been through that already myself. Thost things are not bolted in they are riveted in and you have drill out those rivets or chisel off the heads of them. After that then all you will need is sockets and wrenches because replacements bolt in.

You can use the ones off ebay, thats what I did and have not had any trouble out of them but you can also get MOOG ball joints. They are a bit more expensive but built a bit better too, and some may disagree with this, but since there is a pair of them, one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side, Id replace them in a pair too. The advantage there is they are both new and then they both have the rivets out of them so if they ever need replaced down the road its a whole lot easier.

You'll also may need a ball joint separator, its a U shaped fork looking thing that separates the ball joint from the tapered fitting in the knucle. Ive seen C-clamp type things used before but have not yet personally tried them.

The diagram you have above is not of a Grand Prix at least not one from 2000, but your ball jont will be in the area of #5 in the diagram. However, in the GP at least, they are mounted upside down and the shaft of the ball joint goes into the knuckle and the mounting flange bolts to the lower control arm.

You might want to post a link to the ball joints you are looking at too just to make sure you are getting the correct ones.

Just replacing the ball joints? Probably not. At least I dont think so.

I wish I could be of more help, but what these guys have already said would also be my guesses also. A easy way to check your ball joints is jack one front tire up off the ground about a inch or so, slid a bar underneth the tire and try to lift up on it. If they a worn out or damaged, you'll see the tire move slightly and feel they slop in the bar. If bad enough, you can hear a slight pop. If you have a friend handy, either you or your friend look under the car at the control arm bushings and the other try to move the tire foward and backwards. If the bushings are bad, yo should see some play in them and feel some excessive movement in the tire. Hop this can help you out some. Good luck.

have you ever heard, DONT speak it into existance?

Originally Posted by bcrosby51

every time I am turning to the right and go to excelerate, the front starts to vibrate and shimmy, on when I turn right, turning left....nothing.....what else could it be?

I have this same exact problem

Originally Posted by bcrosby51

...they just called and said that both axles are worn bad and that is causing the shaking...$465 for both replaced...is that good? I am tired of messing with it so I just told them to fix it.

Did this Fix it???

I just got the car a few months ago. (all stock 120k miles) vibration started in right accelerated turns. checked under car to find the large driver side inner CV joint ring came off. Looked inside it was very dry. boot was still good, so for a quick fix I repacked grease new ring and vibration decreased some but still there. im thinking i need new axles. the price did seem good to me. just want to know if it fixed it.

Originally Posted by FormulaW66

I have this same exact problem





Did this Fix it???

I just got the car a few months ago. (all stock 120k miles) vibration started in right accelerated turns. checked under car to find the large driver side inner CV joint ring came off. Looked inside it was very dry. boot was still good, so for a quick fix I repacked grease new ring and vibration decreased some but still there. im thinking i need new axles. the price did seem good to me. just want to know if it fixed it.

Got 2 new (rebuilt) Axles, fixed problem. 190 bucks installed