Thread: New post, some old problem 2000 GTP

I posted this about a month ago and didn't get a lot of responses so I thought I'd try again. In the first post, some commented my problem could be a crank sensor. I am open to that possibility but I don't want to keep hanging parts on this car. And the issue I have with it possibly being a crank sensor is that somebody will have to adequately explain to me why it only acts up when the car is precisely at the "warmed up" point. Any time before that or after that the car runs great. Thanks . . .


I've had this car for year and a half. Has 120,000 miles on it. Back in November it started stalling once in a while. The check came on. Took it in. Tech said it needed a[ sensor replaced. Did it.

Weeks later, it started stalling again. This time, tech said fuel wasn't getting proper voltage. Replaced. Weeks later, it started stalling again.

So, instead of continuing to throw money at the car, I decided to drive it until it would stall and not start again. That was 4 months ago. And the car continues to stall but always starts again. But, it seems to be getting worse.

Here's what happens: The car almost always stalls about ten minutes after starting the car cold. It shuts off like no is going to engine. Within a snap of the fingers, it's off. No hesitating. Nothing. But always about 10 minutes after starting it cold. But, if I go somewhere, let the car sit for like 2 hours, come back out, start it and drive--and it's never had a chance to cool down the whole way--it runs with no problems.

When it stalls, it usually starts right back up. Recently though, it's getting harder to re-start. Maybe like 10 seconds of cranking before starting.

No check. No codes. Still has great power when it's running. It gets the mpg it should.

I'm wondering if there could be some problem with the computer going from closed loop to open loop. Is that possible? Like it gets confused, so it shuts everything down. And then starting it back up clears everything out and then it runs fine. Any ideas out there?

This was happening to me a few years ago, very annoying and took a while to figure out. My problem was the Fuel Pump Resistor. All I did was bypass it and its driving good.

I edited all the color stuff out of your post, because it wasn't highlighting any words, it was just sitting there confusing up the text.

FWIW I truly dislike when someone posts the same stuff again. Going to reread w/o the bias though. If it looks like the same stuff w/o the suggestions we made, I may merge them. Let's go see though.

Originally Posted by madbeach

some commented my problem could be a crank sensor. I am open to that possibility but I don't want to keep hanging parts on this car. And the issue I have with it possibly being a crank sensor is that somebody will have to adequately explain to me why it only acts up when the car is precisely at the "warmed up" point. Any time before that or after that the car runs great. Thanks . . .

This is a gray area. Can't always be explained. I had a crank sensor that stalled the car, then it restarted on it's own. Only way I could test it was to look at the run time counter. When the car seemed to buck (stall and restart) the counter reset. Maybe that's a diagnosis you can try.

Originally Posted by madbeach

Took it in. Tech said it needed a[ sensor replaced. Did it.

You ever read something and wonder, which sensor was replaced? I just did Please tell us which one.

Originally Posted by madbeach

Weeks later, it started stalling again. This time, tech said fuel wasn't getting proper voltage. Replaced. Weeks later, it started stalling again.

Seems like your "tech" is guessing at the issue w/o being an expert on this platform. Tech is causing you to keep throwing parts at it. People on this forum will give you the best and most direct answers to the platform problems.

Originally Posted by madbeach

I'm wondering if there could be some problem with the computer going from closed loop to open loop. Is that possible? Like it gets confused, so it shuts everything down. And then starting it back up clears everything out and then it runs fine. Any ideas out there?

Open/close etc should be happening much sooner than 10 minutes.

My personal opinion..... replace the crank sensor. This sensor is the one thing that most often will not throw a code and has all the symptoms that you mention. You are talking about a $30 sensor and about 25 minutes to replace it.

I realize you asked for reasons as to why a crank sensor may cause the issue. It's an electronic item. Over time/years crap builds up in the slots of the sensor, that may throw the sensor off and cause the issue. I'm not sure anyone has a correct answer beyond people are flawed and therefore build flawed items.