Thread: rebuild questions

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  1. #1 rebuild questions 
    GT Level Member Toms04compg's Avatar
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    Whats up guys im in process of getting the bottom end rod bearings and man completed and yes the crank is turned and polished my question is do you think i would need to replace piston rings or could i slide on that .... The car had good compression and no smoke what so ever.... Thanks in advance
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  2. #2 Re: rebuild questions 
    GTX Level Member QUICKSILVER462's Avatar
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    If your at the point of replacing main and rod bearings, it make no sence to reuse used piston rings. If the cylinder walls are in good shape, have them honed to install new piston rings. If the cylinder walls are scored, and you have a ridge at the top, you need to overbore, the amount of overbore should be decided by the machinist. If overbore is required, then you will need a new set of pistons and new matching set of piston rings.
    On a side not, if the rod and main bearings are being serviced with the pistons still in the engine, meaning if the connecting rods/piston assembly have not been removed to fit new bearings, and you had good cranking compression, than I would say you could probably get by WITHOUT installing new piston rings.
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  3. #3 Re: rebuild questions 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    You did have the block align bored, right? Just polishing the crank will not keep these bottom ends together very long. I'd say less than 200mi. Just trying to save you some extra headache down the road.
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  4. #4 Re: rebuild questions 
    GT Level Member Toms04compg's Avatar
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    I dont get what your saying.... Im getting 0.010" cut off so what the guy had me purchace was oversize main and oversize rod bearings then im getting a touch hone for free and he suggest i get new piston rings. Does that sound about correct? I came back and saw everything from my motor what my rod bearings look like ect.
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  5. #5 Re: rebuild questions 
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    Quote Originally Posted by QUICKSILVER462 View Post
    If your at the point of replacing main and rod bearings, it make no sence to reuse used piston rings. If the cylinder walls are in good shape, have them honed to install new piston rings. If the cylinder walls are scored, and you have a ridge at the top, you need to overbore, the amount of overbore should be decided by the machinist. If overbore is required, then you will need a new set of pistons and new matching set of piston rings.
    On a side not, if the rod and main bearings are being serviced with the pistons still in the engine, meaning if the connecting rods/piston assembly have not been removed to fit new bearings, and you had good cranking compression, than I would say you could probably get by WITHOUT installing new piston rings.

    Everything he said ^^^

    except for if your going to rebuild your engine without pulling the pistons and rods out of the block, dont bother rebuilding your engine. AND specifically on these l67s measure the cylinders for out of round. Mine had 140k on it and the cylinders didnt even look like they needed honed hardly, but a bore measurement showed that were distorted beyond high hell and needed a full over bore job. I went with the sealed power slugs with moly/ceramic coating in .030.
    1999 GTP Coupe ------ Comp Cam 76-802-9, 2.7" pulley, S2IC, N*, FWI, SD Headers, DHP Tune, Built trans (single 3.29s, 300m), Magnaflow Catback, 60#injectors, E85, MT ET Street DR's, Fbody brakes, PRJ pump/rails. 302whp/328ft-lbs.......12.41@110mph
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  6. #6 Re: rebuild questions 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordMan77 View Post
    You did have the block align bored, right? Just polishing the crank will not keep these bottom ends together very long. I'd say less than 200mi. Just trying to save you some extra headache down the road.
    Quote Originally Posted by Toms04compg View Post
    I dont get what your saying.... Im getting 0.010" cut off so what the guy had me purchace was oversize main and oversize rod bearings then im getting a touch hone for free and he suggest i get new piston rings. Does that sound about correct? I came back and saw everything from my motor what my rod bearings look like ect.

    these blocks from what ive read tend to twist up, if the mains on the block are not align honed they they can be out of true. and cause you to have the dreaded 200 mile motor.

    do ask if this has been done. if your spending the money to go this far make sure its all done right.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: rebuild questions 
    GTX Level Member QUICKSILVER462's Avatar
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    If you are assembling the engine yourself, dont forget to check the main, and con. rod oil clearences.
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