Thread: Strange Yellow Residue on Oil Cap?

idk if you'd tell him you "read it somewhere." you need to KNOW for yourself what you're talking about.

but ^^^ this guy has the idea. ask about the gaskets kinda like that lol.

No.. idk what the other owner used, but I just put Castrol Edge Syntec in there.

It's funny that Brandon is so intent on the gaskets after we've established and I "BillBoost" have told him it's a nonissue.

No no Bill. At this point the gasket isn't related to his oil cap problem. I understand that.

I'm more concerned about did the guy even replace what he said he did. And I'm trying to help Hippo determine that so he doesn't get ripped off.

Sorrrrrrrry for being so intent. Maffling will go die now

I don't really think the gaskets are an issues either. I mean, the guy may have told you he changed the gaskets and didn't. Which you may want to look into with him because the LIM gasket should be changed to the new style.

But the gasket is not causing the issues with the moisture under the cap. Short driving distances is the issue.

Yeah. The change of oil and not having lost coolant indicates it's not a LIM issue.

Again he say, I'm trying to make sure dude done his engine right.

Originally Posted by brandonl2000

not having lost coolant indicates it's not a LIM issue.

Actually I would usually look more at the oil itself. By not being milky after running for a minute or so is the best test you can do. We've all had a little coolant loss from evap etc or a burped air bubble. Plus..who can even see the level in that silly location for the overflow.

One thing I've found that made me reason this stuff out quite a bit was this...
An guy on a Bonneville forum (not Bpro ) always said that if someone had a NA motor that ruptured a UIM that they should drain the oil immediately to keep from damaging the bottom end.

That's a well intentioned suggestion, right? Well this guy would rant and scream about people draining and I asked, "What does that do?" What this guy wouldn't listen to was that when you pull the oil pan plug in a steel panned motor....there's ~3/8" of fluid that is below the level of the plug and it doesn't drain. Water being heavier than oil, if water had gotten past the rings into the crankcase and the car sat for any amount of time..the water and oil would seperate Water would be in that bottom 3/8. So when you fire up the car, let it run a little and check the oil.

My suggestion is always based on "is the oil milky after it's running for a moment." If there's water in the pan, it'll get stirred up and the oil will be milky.

Looks like you were cooking ramen in there.

Unless you use the yellow coolant instead of dexcool... that's the wrong color.

You'll hate this question: Is your oil filled to the correct level?

Also, if you want to be 100% sure about a gasket problem, send the oil out for a test. It's $10-$25, depending on who you use. They'll give you a chemical break down of what's in the oil. Things like potassium only occur in coolant.

this would be true. on my n/a motor i had so much coolant in the oil that the oil on the dipstick was milky and had nearly doubled on the stick. mine had hydrolocked UIM was crap and LIM was crap. so yup.
i see what you mean though.