Kj.. you chose the hard way. Subframe lowering is the key.
Spade..I agree. My ingersol 3/8 loves to get those bolts "loose" quickly..lol I've never had an issue on the head bolts. Cept for one that I'm sure had been messed with in it's past.
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Kj.. you chose the hard way. Subframe lowering is the key.
Spade..I agree. My ingersol 3/8 loves to get those bolts "loose" quickly..lol I've never had an issue on the head bolts. Cept for one that I'm sure had been messed with in it's past.
Yea i did it by myself subframe lowering was not an option
You need more/better tools.
i used a bottle jack and a masonry wall block to sit the jack on. its amazing what 2 or 3 inches of drop can do for more room.
I only have a jack and two jack stands and alot of rust partial reason is i was worried about bolts stripping or brreaking GF just movd to NO so no ride to autoparts store
Bringing this back to life.. tried the other bolt on other side where downpipe connects under the car this weekend. Used propane torch to heat it forever and went at it and surprise surprise... snap!! So yea I had to drill out another one. Looking where the downpipe meets the header looks like a tough spot and I'm thinking if the bolt snaps there, I'm kinda screwed. Took to exaust shop and they quoted me 90 to do it... but instead of replacing whole thing, they are planning on cutting stock pipe up towards the headers then cutting the downpipe I want to install to match and weld it... I guess they are scared of the bolts snapping also? Think that is a good plan? Sounded strange to me that they wouldn't just install it the normal way..
Also sucks because I won't be able to sell the stock one... and yes, this is a reputable exhaust shop in my area
They are being lazy. If you are going to pay someone to do this, do it the right way. The bolts that bolt from the crossover to the downpipe should come out with ease.
Yea I was speechless... and everytime I hinted not to do that they seemed like they weren't paying any attention. I was under the impression the bolts closer to the headers would be more likely to snap? They are less likely then the ones connecting it under the car?
My crossover to rear mani one bolt snapped and the rear mani to dp came out with ease, and by ease i mean an impact and 2 ft of ext.
possibly just a lot more wrenching. Make sure you spray some pb blaster on there first
Pretty much lol. Then it's header time :D
Hahaha... good thing I always have hundreds of dollars laying around.... oh wait, I'm broke at the moment. :). So... pay to get it done after I pay bills, try to soak the bolts everynight for a week, or say F it and sell it. Decisions decisions...
i punked out and got local shop to put it on for me and they only charged 40
Must be a nice local shop... I think 90 is a bit on the high end for direct bolt on replacement... maybe ill check around a bit
The lower bolts are more prone to rust. The upper bolts from rear manifold to DP are stout. They typically don't snap.
The tools I use are a 2" extension, ball pivot snap on deep socket and a 3/8" ratchet with a long handle. Yes..now a days I use air..but for the longest time..I simply crawled under with the listed tools. I think I've broken only one stud over the years on teh manifold to DP connection. And if you are doing headers..then it doesn't matter if they break.
Want a tip.. read my tip earlier. Warm the car up, put it on stands and loosen any bolts you think you don't want to snap.