Engine problems

**mattstansbury** · 09-16-2011

Ok. So I got my plugs/ wires. Replaced the front 3, going to do the back 3 tomorrow. So anyway the problem has gotten worse, now the engine pulls to 4,000rpm and just DIES. It won't pull at all after that. It also makes a strange clunking noise. Which brings me to a question, why is my car such a POS!? And could it be a cat problem? As gm did announce that the 2001-2002 3.8s were fitted with a bad catalytic converter or something like that. I also unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same.

**dsmuts** · 09-16-2011

any codes?

**mattstansbury** · 09-19-2011

had my brother, whose close friends with local mechanic, code scan it for free and when we first did the scan here were the codes: MAF problem, random misfire. Previous owner stated he had MAF sensor replaced recently, so we reset the codes and it showed misfire on #2 cylinder. Im pretty much set on the catalytic converter though, the engine is running pretty warm, the exhaust gas is REALLY hot from the mufflers..and this letter straight from GM:
Condition
Some customers of 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix; and Buick Regal model , equipped with a 3.4L (RPO LA1 - VIN E) or 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN K) V6, may experience a condition where the vehicle exhaust catalytic converter is replaced due to complaints of lack of power or illumination of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). This may be due to the front endcone insulation from the catalytic converter breaking away and blocking the front of the first catalyst brick and preventing the free flow of exhaust gas through the converter.
Special Policy Adjustment
This special policy covers the condition described above for a period of 10 years or 120,000 miles (190,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. The repairs will be made at no charge to the customer.

**mattstansbury** · 10-05-2011

Sorry to unearth a farely old post, but the problem was the Cat converter...Due to the fact in WV no emmision test is needed, my brother and I simply cut the pipe at the weld on the U-Bend and drilled a large hole through the converter's innards and then got the impact wrench with a straight rod and beat out the innards, periodically starting car up to blow out the chunks that were broken up. After that a sleeve was C-Clamped on and it runs amazing, doesn't sound half bad either. So to anyone with a 2001-2002...You should probably start here if any engine problems are encountered.

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 10-05-2011

well its good you found the problem, but your prolly gunna have a SES light now because the rear 02 is now not reading right because of the cat being gone.

And with 01+ cars, the rear o2 has a roll in what your mpgs might be.

**mechguy** · 10-05-2011

Buy a better downpipe, sell the old cat for $100 as scrap, and gain flow. Win.

**mattstansbury** · 10-07-2011

yea, once i get enough funds saved up i think im gonna hacksaw the entire muffler off infront of cat, weld a straight pipe in through the cat, weld cat around pipe and eliminate u-bend and all. I'd weld the cat back around it so it will pass inspection ;]. Then a PCM if i can find a dealer who will CASE learn it :/.. It actually runs alot better and gas mileage isn't bad. filled up and set trip, gone 125 miles on a 1/4 tank of gas. We have a lot of hills here in WV and it wasn't all highway. It sure is better than when the converter was all messed up lol 150 miles to the tank >.>