Thread: Fuel Pump change

Quick question on a fuel pump. Went out on me right as I headed home from school at the end of last semester and left me getting a tow that messed up my air dam, finding a ride two hours north, and then dragging my lowered car onto a trailer with make shift rams. Since Ive been home the car has sat and I have used the bike for transportation, however it is getting old having to ride to work in the rain. So I am finally seeking a way to get this fixed. Basically I am checking out Wbody Store and seeing two seperate pumps. One is the drop in, and the other is the pump itself. Do I need the whole unit or is their pump more of a plug and play like what is used in TDCRacing 's How-To? If I can use the pump only I would rather do that nd save the 80 bucks, but wasnt positive and there are no returns on those sorts of things so I wanted to be sure.

Here is the Full unit

https://www.wbodystore.com/Quickchan...ump-p-254.html

Here is the pump only

https://www.wbodystore.com/Stock-Sty...uri-p-264.html

Also, will all connectors fit correctly? I would much rather not have to do any cutting/splicing if it can be avoided.

Car is a 2000 GTP coupe with an L32 if that changes anything. Thanks in advance

Does the car start then stall? If so, you need a resistor, not a pump.

Beyond that, consider the TREPerformance pump.

Ok, there is a way to test that correct? sometimes when I turn the key on the pump will prime, and other times it will not. Also where is the best place to buy a resistor if I can test that and verify it is the problem? Thanks in Advance

Whats it look like? Trying to get a few more specifics before I go tear into it, maybe a little better idea on location?

Please search for fuel pump resistor. And say my name. Then when you find the link, bend the pin on the relay to bypass it and see if that's the issue.

Ok, I will look that up when I get a chance. I did try bending the pin and that didnt work, but if there is more to it I will try and get that bypassed and see where that takes me. No time to sift through too many searches yet lol.

Thanks again

found the thread. I had bent that pin out on the side of the road knowing it was a common issue and there was no change, I thought maybe there was more to it. So what should I do pump wise?

Bump

Can anyone verify that the cheap pump can go into my stock unit without cutting and splicing wires?

it looks to be a direct swap out of the old pump, you still need to remove the old pump and housing from the tank, and take it apart some. its a easy job to do tho, couple of little hoses and the plug, add the new filter on the bottom. from ones ive done in the past, there was a metal bar with a hole in it that the pump sat in, all you really need to do is bend the bar and hoop down and slide out the old pump.

if your unsure of your self, remove the pump from the tank and take a few pics before taking out the old pump out of the housing.

it really is a easy repair tho.

pump access is in the trunk or under the back seat, try not to have a full tank when you remove the pump too.

and on a cheaper note, i think you could get a better price for that from a local parts store or e bay for that matter, last one i did was 30 bucks.