Thread: Shift lock solenoid wiring diagram/schematic

Originally Posted by GeeXPee

Solenoid should be bipolar, meaning you can apply voltage in either direction. Just ground one end and apply voltage to the other, if you are worried about the damaging it put a resistor inline to limit current.

The wire harness/connector has 5 pins/wires going to it, so I don't know which goes to which end. If there were just 2 wires I would figure out which with a test light or try putting power to one, but since there are 5 wires I don't know what else they go to. If they are going to other solenoids and such I don't want to blow something putting power on the wrong terminal. Nobody has a diagram or knows which wire is the power feed?

Can you physically see the solenoid wires for the BTSI? If so there should only be 2 wires attached, could be wrong I guess not entirely familiar with all BTSI's. If you have access to the wires feeding the BTSI (not just the connector) you could put a small knick in the coating to get to the wire, then do a continuity test back to the connector. Once you figure out which pin it is you can test it from that point. I could probably help you out more if I could see what you are looking at.

I'm guessing the BTSI solenoid was probably made by Delphi Steering, aka Nexteer. I don't have a part number...I know we use to send out new solenoids for warranty repairs that's what made me think you wouldn't need to replace the entire assembly. Sounds like I'm giving you false hope. Not sure how your mounts but it may be possible to replace it with a different solenoid giving the voltage and push/pull orientation and arm size are similar.

The camera on my phone SUCKS so these are not great, but here is a picture. It looks like the solenoid (fuzzy black thing under the bracket) is riveted to the bracket that is part of the shifter assembly. If that is the case it would be easy enough to drill out the rivets and bolt in a replacement, but just don't know where to find the replacement. I put red arrows pointing to the rivets, the solenoid, and the connector with 5 pins on it.

Also don't know for sure that it is the solenoid that is bad since I don't know where to put power to test it. It has a 5-wire connector going to it.

NEVER MIND...I STILL CAN'T GET THEM TO UPLOAD/ATTACH TO THE POST. I have tried before and for some reason it always says upload failed. I don't think I have even been able to upload pictures to this forum. I even tried zipping them and it won't take that. Anyway, I have some pictures sitting here but you can't see them. Scratch this post.

That is not me, but I thought I saw another one rolling around here too. Did it have gold wheels? I thought I saw it up in Ogden once too (unless there are 2 more rolling around here), and have tried finding them with no luck.

The actuator is not retracting--the solenoid is not doing anything. I do know which wire your talking about because I see the power switching with the brake pedal (I think pressing the brake stopped power going to that wire, but it could have been the other way around). Anyway, I do have a DMM and would like to get this figured out. PM me your info (or I can PM you) and we should get together some time.

Ah roger that, thought that may have been you. Sounds like you found the issue though, I can't see it being anything else. The voltage is probably dropping off on the line when you hit the brake, which it should. If I remember correctly it's always applied to lock the solenoid arm out, the brake cuts power and it retracts. So it sounds like the circuitry is working just fine, if there were any issues with the wiring the solenoid would retract since power wouldn't make it there and the car would shift out of park regardless of the brake pedal position. I'll send you a PM still though.