Coupling Questions; upgrading speakers

**trapper1306** · 11-20-2010

hey guys im new to the forum. ive been looking around for the best answers on what exactly i absolutely need to power the system i want to put in my car. the car is a 99 grand prix supercharged. im planning on installing jvc arsenal series HU, JBL power series 5 1/4 fronts 55w rms 165 peak, JBL power series 6x9 rears 110w rms 330w peak, JBL pb1220 12" ported sub enclosure 400w rms 1600w peak

to power this,i am getting a JBL GTO1004 amp for the speakers 600watts, and a JBL GTO7001, 700watt mono sub amp

now the confusing part begins... i have been told that if i run a 4gauge power wire back to the trunk then use a power block and run 2 short 8 guages to the amps with 8 guage grounds on them that i should be fine with stock alt and wiring. however, ive also been told to do the big 3 upgrade or get a cap (both of which seem to not be needed in my case) but im still not sure and cannot get a straight forward answer

so my question is will running those 2 amps off of stock alternator and a newew battery in the car with the proper 4 and 8g wiring be fine? and, whatd you guys think of that setup? all for less than $900 new!

also all speakers and sub are 2 ohm... thanks in advance for the help!!

**cerick08GP** · 11-20-2010

I’m not an audio guru, but I’ll throw out my opinion anyway.

The advice you got on wire size seems just fine. Often people blame wire size on faulty connections, solder and ring terminals are your friend.

I don’t have much doubt you are in HO alternator territory, adding a cap or doing the big three won’t change much. However if I were you I’d beef up the grounding on your GP. The stock fender well ground on all GPs are for $h!t. Remove the ground wire at the fender well and grind/sand the connection down to bare metal. That area gets quite a bit of grime build up, and it comes painted from the factory leaving about 1 square millimeter of metal for the actual connection.

Go buy yourself a 6 gauge cable about 42 inches long, and run it from the base of your alternator to that fender well ground you just fixed. And bang, now you have a much improved system grounding for like $5.

Pop in a new battery see how it goes, just watch your voltage. If you don’t have enough juice, save yourself the disappointment of buying a useless cap and put the money in a HO alternator.

As far as the system, seems super duper. I’d love to have the sub in my ride.

**whiney** · 11-20-2010

Ok, so the monoblock is fused for 75 amps. the 4 channel is fused for 75 amps also. So worst case scenario will be 150 amps. Now if it was me i'd get the approprite wire gauge to suit that. You would just be best trying to find 2 gauge or something in that area. Now, there is now way i can see that 4 channel drawing 75 amps so you will have some nice dimming when it hits but the alternator should live.

**trapper1306** · 11-20-2010

thank you for the help guys! im going to try it with stock alternator battery and wires and just use the proper wiring for amps and speakers.

i read somewhere on here that the stock alternator is 110 amp, which means it would be putting out about 1500 watts. ive read somewhere else that the car alone without the audio system will need 400-500 watts. and i plan on putting about 75w to each of the front speakers, 150w to each of the rear speakers, and about 600 watts to sub. which is a total peak of about 1050 watts for the whole sytem. so correct me if im wrong but i should be completely fine with stock alt because i will only be putting 1050 watts to the system, leaving 450 watts free at all times, and even more because the system is rarely going to be hitting at full power.
is this logic correct? im not very good with electric at all but thought that all seemed to make sense

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