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shawn, are you saying that the low air velocity is probably because of a bad resistor? Just clarifying is all. I sounds as if it is blowing really hard with the setting up high, but just doesn't seem to move the air much.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawngtp
I don't have my VIN right now, but I'll get it. +$200 list sounds right if my price is $150.
i had a problem with my old 2000
Seems that when the lever is switched to the left....hi A/C there is a door that opens behind the glove box.
I pulled the glove box out to change the motor because it was vibrating bad!!!!
Turns out stuff fell out of the top or the glovebox and crap fell into the motor(believe it)there is no screen there....happened again afew years later and had low output....a mouse made a nest inside the motor with insulation!!!!!!!!
all you have to do is pull down the glovebox..you can put both hands into the motor....make sure key is off thought...
I don't have a wiring schematic in front of me, but my guess is that a bad resistor can affect ALL speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol
My guess is that it's nothing more than a system of ballast resistors more or less that knock down the voltage heading to the motor (from a constant line side feed) and adjust its speed. So, if you have a bad resistor assembly with increased resistance, the voltage heading to your blower motor will decrease and so will the motor's speed.
One way you should be able to check is to yank the blower motor, check a schematic (should be in your Hayne's manual) to find the high speed terminals and run if off of a +12VDC source (I assume there are no transformers etc).
My wife's car (2005 Monte) had a bad resistor assembly. Her blower motor was slow and wouldn't respond to the controls a lot of times. It would take ~10 min for the fan to actually start. The motor was fine - with a replacement resistor pack it fired right up and now works flawlessly.
on 5 it should be full speed but if you find 1-4 aren't nearly comparable to 5 then your resistor is probably providing more resistance than it should.
5 bypasses the resistor is why.
VIN is 1G2WR521XXF201452
97gmgtp, I'm unclear on what you're saying. My unit is sealed. Are you saying this door opens only when the A/C is on high? I had the glove box tipped down, but the only thing visible is the motor, itself, not the cage.
Snow, my 97 has the tree knobs so i dont know if it performs different than the electronic control.
When i put my selector on high a/c....first notch it opens a door to recirculate the inside air and gives a faster appearing fan speed.
If you tip down the glove box until it fits the floor you can see the entire fan assembly unit.
Start the car,and turn it on high ac(first notch)you should see a huge door open up that sits right behind the glove box when it is closed....you can put both hands into it and spin the cage.
If the glove box is full of crap like mine was.it is possible for stuff to fall behind it and once the ac is turned on high and the door opens stuff falls into the motor.
I pulled out a pen,an envelope,and one of my kids plastic toys.
Not saying this is your issue but worth a look.
Ok based off vin# yours is just like mineQuote:
Originally Posted by SnowDrift
Blower Motor (w/impeller) - GM#19131212. ACDelco #15-80664. Suggested List #215.74
Blower Resistor - GM#89019166. ACDelco #15-8756. Suggested List $244.86
Blown Illustration \/ (EDIT: No Cabin Filter shown, have to rig up something)
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l7...7;20lol/AC.jpg
Thanks for looking that up. I'll try to find time to take the motor out this weekend and hook up 12v power to it to see if it still vibrates. It sounds like if it's a smooth running motor, then the resistor is bad, right?
I'll experiment with the settings, too, to see if that opens any sort of door you're talking about. Is it item #5 on the exploded view shown? If so, then it appears to be a blend door for vents vs. front defrost.
I guess I thought resistors were usually in the $30 range. A list of +$200 is not what I had expected. I guess, though, if I don't have heat, it doesn't matter what the cost is to get it back.
The resistor is only for controlling the speed. It's the same principle as a wall dial on a ceiling fan (like a rheostat basically).
If the fan is mechanically vibrating, that has nothing to do with the resistor. The blower motor assembly probably has to be replaced.
My 1998 had something very similar - my car shook when the blower motor ran and it was loud. The speeds etc were all fine - but the motor was vibrating badly.
the defrost blend door is behind the radio.
The one behind the glove is fresh/recirc air
im not surprise that we have to check for regal part thats the same platform of a grandprix lol
I took the blower motor out tonight and it's the original one. There were some leaves in the cage, itself and I'm wondering if some have blown up in the the rest of the air box or ducting because it still doesn't blow well at all. I guess I'll try to get a vacuum cleaner hose up in there to see if I can get anything out of it next. Sound about right?
its a possibility, just be careful whiledoing it, damaging those vents could cost you alot. By the same token, it you have an air compressor and could blow them out "backwards" you might get it clean that way too:th_thumbsup-wink:
That's a good idea. Maybe I'll try blowing it back, first.
Nothing blew back, but after checking the fan condition, I learned that the thing is blowing well when I hooked 12v to it, direct. I noticed the yellow vacuum line was off the actuator a little bit, so I pushed it back on and now have pretty strong air blowing from all locations, at will.
In retropsect, I think that it was not a problem of a weak air flow, but that I had it stuck on a blend situation that resulted in a little bit of air on all three locations (windshield, dash vents, floor vents). I still can't blow dry my hair like I can in our two trucks, but it's a HECK of a lot better than before.
I did notice this harness when I went to reinstall the insulation panel, though, and couldn't see where it was to go. I didn't unplug it, but it appears to be important. Any ideas for me?? I'll try to load it. I'll also post in another new thread.
GP harness picture by rwparsell - Photobucket
M*therf*cker!!! I know this is an old thread but after reading this one I went in there & took a look. Sure enough there was a cd from the previous idiot owner that must've fallen into that cage thing while it was open long ago. I've had my GTP since '05 & the HVAC in terms of the force of the air blowing out has always kinda sucked. After I found that god d*mn cd & cleaned out a little of the dust in there & now on level 7 it blows out air SOOOO much better than before. Comparing how it used to be before I found the culprit compared to now: On full blast before it equals I'd say 3 out of 7 now. I've had this car for 7 years!!! Lol. Just got my AC fixed too due to a leaky condenser & bad compressor. It works like HOW it should now. I'm kind of dumbfounded over the whole thing. Yeah I would advise for everyone to look & feel around in that cage thing with the car off... Never know wat u'll find... ;D
Never had a problem with the air blowing strong in the GP.
However, I did have the problem with an 88 Chevy pickuptruck untill I cleaned out the evaperator for the a/c. It was full of trash/junck/dust/whatever you want to call it. I used my craftsman shop vac. and first vacuumed it out, then blew threw it with compressed air. Then air flow from the vents was back to brand new like blowing strength. This is something to look into for those with weak airflow from the vents in your GP also, that is if all the other systems are in good/proper working order.