I dont know how your buddy ran a 3.25 with only the mods listed and not grenade the motor. Maybe he had some kind of factory freak or something. I have the basic 3.4 setup on my car:
- Stainless Steel Power Log(get the stainless, the mild steel plog WILL crack)
- 3" downpipe with no cat and rear O2 simulator
- Borla exhaust(purely for making it sound better)
- Wizair intake(not necessary, you can make a cheap poopoo pipe intake)
- 180 stat(perfectly fine for these cars, especially for a daily driver, it will help keep the MPG's up)
- Autolite copper core 104 plugs gapped between .055 and .060
- I have PRJ plug wires, but I have heard stock wires are fine far beyond the amount of horsepower you will be putting down, I just like the red color and 10.4 mm size, plus they are made for repeated plug changes, which is nice because I change the 104's out every 6 months or so)
- Mag snout with 3.4 pulley( snout for supercharger that just has a bolt to take off to change pulleys)
- Fuel pump rewire(helps keep voltage up to the fuel pump)
- Digital horsepower PCM(have an Overkill PCM in route to my house as we speak)
- Mini AFC 2.0(goes inline with the MAF sensor to help add a little more fuel here and there go help stabillize long term fuel trims, you cant buy these new anymore, but they can be found on the for sale board from time to time)
- Probably the most important thing is a tuner or scanner or scan gauge or something like that so you can see what is going on with the car. I have an Autotap scanner and an Aeroforce scan gauge. Monitering knock retard is critical for these cars. I have about 1-2 degrees knock when the car is heat soaked. I am hoping the Overkill PCM will help get me the rest of the way.
I also have a few suspension upgrades as well, you may want to look at upgrading the front brakes to 12 inch rotors. The stock set up is marginal at best and this will help. Alot of people have gone with a F-body caliper,bracket,rotor conversion as well.
