Thread: Fuel pump plug/wiring melted?! Grr!

So today marks the first day out of almost 3 years my poor DD grand prix has left me stranded. Started my car so I can leave work and go home and it ran for about 2 seconds and then died. My gas gauge had stopped working a couple days ago and so first thing I did was think fuel pump. After checking all the fuses I decided to rip my pump out in the parking lot. Upon inspection the black ground wire seems to have fused with one of the float wires and melted stuff. I tried just disconnecting the wires and electrical taping them just to get me home but that didnt work so I'm assuming the plug is toast.
I know this is a semi common problem which is why they changed the plug design to the flat 4 but do we know what causes this? Also I have a spare plug but its the flat 4 one is there anyway I can hardwire this or do I just need to buy a new canister?

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I'm running a aem pump non venture style in my modified venturi canister. Can I just buy a non venturi canister and plop it in or is there any wiring difference or anything between a 97-2000 and a 2001+

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man that stinks. Sorry to hear that suitercrew! I wish I knew!

Well I was able to jb weld the melted plug back together ajd electrical tape the wires. Luckily it worked so I'm able to start the car and drive home. I ordered a 25$ fuel pump on Amazon just so I can rip the wiring harness and plug out of it. Should be the same wiring from the research ive done.

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Originally Posted by wstefan20

man that stinks. Sorry to hear that suitercrew! I wish I knew!

Thanks for the support man! Ya its weird I remember seeing multiple threads on this issue back in the day but I spent an hour looking for them last night and I couldn't find a single one so I'm just hoping for the best. At least I know what the problem is which is already better then 95% of the time I have a problem and then spend weeks just diagnosing it. Lol

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Nice! let us know how it goes. I'm lucky enough to have an 02, but if I ever get another older model, I'd like to know what to do! Too bad you couldn't just grab one out of junkyards near you. I swear, if I ever make enough money, I'm moving back to North Carolina and opening up a Pick-n-Pull. That place is the best!

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Nice! let us know how it goes. I'm lucky enough to have an 02, but if I ever get another older model, I'd like to know what to do! Too bad you couldn't just grab one out of junkyards near you. I swear, if I ever make enough money, I'm moving back to North Carolina and opening up a Pick-n-Pull. That place is the best!

Well I could have but, I work 10hr shifts and so I wouldnt have any time to get to the junkyard till now tomorrow but even then Idk if I'd be able to get a ride or not. So its just a lot easier order from Amazon and getting their free same day shipping to my door step! Lol
Plus the nearest junkyard is about a 25-30 minute drive right through the heart of the city which is terrible because Arizona drivers are the absolute worst.. Except for maybe California.

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ew to all of that.... I totally agree on that. I live 10 minutes away from like 5 very large junkyards so I'm in parts heaven! haha Missouri drivers are annoying, but definitely tolerable most of the time.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

ew to all of that.... I totally agree on that. I live 10 minutes away from like 5 very large junkyards so I'm in parts heaven! haha Missouri drivers are annoying, but definitely tolerable most of the time.

Lucky! I was born in Missouri and spent part of my child hood there before moving to this 125* ****hole. I loved Missouri, plus the cost of living was a lot better up there. Only thing that's good about Arizona is I never have to deal with the rust cr*p

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Originally Posted by suitercrew

Lucky! I was born in Missouri and spent part of my child hood there before moving to this 125* ****hole. I loved Missouri, plus the cost of living was a lot better up there. Only thing that's good about Arizona is I never have to deal with the rust cr*p

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True life there. I just moved here from North Carolina. Got some relatives down in Arizona though. Not a bad place. The quality of junkyards is one of the only things I like more about here then NC. These cars seem to have a way of breaking down when it's most inconvenient...

Originally Posted by wstefan20

True life there. I just moved here from North Carolina. Got some relatives down in Arizona though. Not a bad place. The quality of junkyards is one of the only things I like more about here then NC. These cars seem to have a way of breaking down when it's most inconvenient...

Well I found a gen v supercharger at a pull n pay and it was only 50$.. But I still didnt get it lol

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Yeah. I'm tempted since I can get a whole L67 with supercharger for $100 on half off days. Maybe one day I'll have the motivation. I'm still flattering myself thinking I'll go turbo one day.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Yeah. I'm tempted since I can get a whole L67 with supercharger for $100 on half off days. Maybe one day I'll have the motivation. I'm still flattering myself thinking I'll go turbo one day.

Haha ya well at least your being smart and truthful to yourself. Two years ago I said all I wanted was to have a supercharger on my car. Then all I wanted was high ratio roller rockers, then switching to e85, and then an intercooler, and most recently NITROUS. I am happy with the car and where it's at but, if i just had money to blow I would deffinately be going turbo or maybe twin charged. It just depends on your wants. You can have a 400hp supercharged grand prix in no time and for not much $$ but, if thats not enough for you, you gotta hop on the turbo train.

There's a turbo kit selling on 3800 marketplace for only 900$ I think it might have been missing something though. I cant remember.

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Completely my thoughts on the matter. I was rushed when I rebuilt both my engine and transmission and rebuilt both stock, which is fine, but I'm still kicking myself. I'm thinking I'll do a Frankenstein swap while I'm at the yard and take the bottom of a L67 so I get rods, take heads, supercharger and lower intake from a L32, and injectors/ rails from a L67. It'll take time, but I guarantee the yard won't know the difference.

I really need to post a how - to for junkyard engine pulls for our car. I used to do it the Haynes manual way and it took forever. Then I found out all you need to do is remove engine/trans mount bottom bolts, remove bell - housing bolts, differential brace bolts, dog- bones, cut all lines like trans, power steering, bake etc., remove torque converter bolts, then just remove the four subframe bolts, it'll be suspended by the struts, then remove struts bolts and it'll fall to ground. Then all you do is cut a seat belt strap and hoist it out of there! Usually takes me around 30 minutes to grab an engine or transmission from start to finish using this method.

Ya you really should! If its as easy as you make it sound id probably rather just pull the motor whenever I get the balls to swap cams.
I'm sure you already know about the problems that we have with reusing rods right. (How they get ovaled and can cause you to spin a bearing)

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Originally Posted by suitercrew

Ya you really should! If its as easy as you make it sound id probably rather just pull the motor whenever I get the balls to swap cams.
I'm sure you already know about the problems that we have with reusing rods right. (How they get ovaled and can cause you to spin a bearing)

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Yup! My machine shop found out that you can plane off both intersecting halves of the connecting rods to bring it back into round, and if done right, it brings clearances back at the same time without having to re-grind your crank or use different sized bearings! Worked like a charm! Then I just used the re-usable ARP bolts to add some strength.

When you go to swap cams, I'm sure you might already know this, but if you drop the subframe just right, you can get this sucker out through the wheel-well and not worry about pulling the whole engine. You do need to unbolt the exhaust and a few other things to avoid damage, but then I just remove timing cover and have some fun! I'm not a big fan of the janky way of using the starter to spin off the crank bolt. I just use a long breaker bar and put a chisel in the flywheel teeth by the inspection cover taped to a stand so I don't have to hold it. Use this trick at the junkyard all the time and it works like a charm. Same thing for torquing it back down too! I use an old timing chain and sprocket for the cam bolt in the off chance that I stretch the chain or break the tensioner. I'm probably too cautious though in some regards. I've messed with this engine a little too much... haha

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Yup! My machine shop found out that you can plane off both intersecting halves of the connecting rods to bring it back into round, and if done right, it brings clearances back at the same time without having to re-grind your crank or use different sized bearings! Worked like a charm! Then I just used the re-usable ARP bolts to add some strength.

When you go to swap cams, I'm sure you might already know this, but if you drop the subframe just right, you can get this sucker out through the wheel-well and not worry about pulling the whole engine. You do need to unbolt the exhaust and a few other things to avoid damage, but then I just remove timing cover and have some fun! I'm not a big fan of the janky way of using the starter to spin off the crank bolt. I just use a long breaker bar and put a chisel in the flywheel teeth by the inspection cover taped to a stand so I don't have to hold it. Use this trick at the junkyard all the time and it works like a charm. Same thing for torquing it back down too! I use an old timing chain and sprocket for the cam bolt in the off chance that I stretch the chain or break the tensioner. I'm probably too cautious though in some regards. I've messed with this engine a little too much... haha

Haha ive had my crank bolt off 3 times since I've had the car but let me tell you that first time I had to take it off I used a 500ft lb impact that didn't budge it, then I used the red neck starter trick which also didnt work. Then I went out and bought a 1000ft lb impact.. Which still didn't work. Finally I took it to a shop and they had this weird tool that is just a heating element that is made to fit on to the bolt head almost like a socket and it super heats the crap out of it. The guy had the tool on the crank bolt for maybe 15 seconds and 20minutes later when we went to put on the new balancer on the bolt was still to hot to even touch.. That thing was insane.

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Wow! I've seen some bolts that are on there good at the yard and never had that much trouble! And yes, those tools are the ****! Wish I could afford one, but then it'd just lay around in my garage 90% of the time.