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05-14-2017
Hey. I need to repace the noisy bearing in the A/C compressor pulley of my 99 GTP. Can't find complete instructions and think front wheel drive cars are stupid. That being said, how do I get the nut in the middle off? Do I need to dismount the compressor and put an impact on it or go buy the spanner tool that looks like maybe it holds the clutch still? I do bodywork and am lost...
I have this-
...and this-
Anybody done this before? Speak up if you can assist. Thanks.
05-14-2017
ive heard you get a pry bar a 5 lb baby sledge, pound on it and yell bad words till you give up and buy a whole new compressor lol
but really, it dont seem that bad with the right tools. and you look to have em in hand.
05-14-2017
I wondered about that hole. Pretty sure mine isn't just scraping but I'll take another look. It sounds like a box o' rox with the belt off. This began after driving through high water so... perhaps it is some debris and not a washed out bearing. Thanks for that vid, SD.
05-14-2017
you can lube the ring the belt rides on, see if that shuts it up.
theres a how to here with a much better vid of the tools, "in use" setting the air gap and all that jazz, i didnt look to hard for it.
05-14-2017
Aw I had looked at other vids clearly demonstrating the remove / install process. Got a press at work so the bearing should be a snap. I am hip to lubing first to see. Just not with dude lube, lol.
05-14-2017
Hosed some PB and checked for stuff stuck behind the pulley. Now its a loud scraping sound when clutch is disengaged and almost silent when engaged. But I still have the bearing noise, too. Further investigation required.
05-15-2017
I ended up doing this to get the nut off, screwdriver against frame. If I want to do this with the compressor in place, I'll need to trim the tip plus a couple threads off the tool, or use a bolt instead. Taking the tool to work tomorrow so I can mod it. I don't think that will create a situation where the pulley won't come out far enough but I could be wrong. I'll see if I can find a bolt the right size.
05-16-2017
Just realized shortening the remover won't help because the installer would still be too long. Duh. I think I'll take the compressor and bracket loose from the engine to get access.
05-16-2017
the one good vid i saw it was not on a w body, but the guy did strap it up and hang it lower to work on it.
you could try lowering the sub frame a few inches. like for a cam swap.
05-16-2017
Hmm. Well I was looking at the spare L67 and it looked like just a couple bolts if I unbolt the bracket, or 3 if I take the compressor off the bracket. Didn't think about lowering the subframe. Inch and a half of drop might do. Did not get out there to work at it tonight. Still don't have snap ring pliers anyhow. I miss my dang GTP though!
05-17-2017
Borrowed some snap ring pliers today. Got under there and saw the backside of the compressor and decided dropping the frame would be easier than getting to all that. I'm lacking the patience or skill or motivation or all three. Having thoughts of alternatives.
05-18-2017
Well at least I got the compressor loose to where I can put the puller on it. Started pulling and then thought about the snap ring and needed to watch a vid again. Couldn't remember if it was after pulling the clutch or before. Its after, but thats all the time I could invest today. Baby steps.
05-20-2017
Got the clutch off finally, late last night. Then I had a snap ring question, theres two I can see so I'll double check the vid I'm using as a guide. Thinking I may run into trouble after that because all I've got is a steering wheel puller but the vid indicates GMs need a big two jaw puller to separate the pulley from the compressor's crankshaft. Doing engine compartment work on FWD cars is just overly difficult. Wish I could afford something else!
05-20-2017
OK so I am imagining a second snap ring, it was dirt instead. But both snap ring pliers I borrowed are too small. I am curious how others have done this repair but more curious why I seem to be the only one to ever attempt it. I must be missing something obvious like the engine has to be out of the car. Theres no lift at my house.
05-20-2017
Only thing I figure is when the clutch bearing goes out maybe it's just simpler/less time consuming to replace the entire compressor?? I mean it's really only 3-5 bolts, and electrical connection or 2 and out it comes. Downside is you have to vac/recharge the system afterwards.
05-20-2017
The evac/recharge is what I'm trying to sidestep because the only thing with a problem is the bearing. Most folks on forums try to steer a guy towards doing the absolute least dollar thing and give no consideration to labor and tools required or down time. I am trying to do that for once and its giving me an actual pain in the neck just trying to access the compressor. As far as I can tell, the compressor could only come out from the top after removing the radiator. Right now I am considering removing the front bumper and right splash shield and wheel then attempting to lower the frame using jack and stands. Its absolutely ridiculous and I may end up reassembling it and paying a shop. Too bad I can't work on it at my employer's shop. This is the first job I've had where I can't and its a strong un-perk at times like this.
05-20-2017
And by the way thanks for the reply FordMan. Believe it or not, during my collision repair years I replaced several dozen condensers and maybe a compressor or two, then used machines to evac and recharge. So I do have some idea how simple that is, but don't have any shop access for that now.
05-21-2017
Holy crap I finally got the pulley off! Was beginning to wonder if I'd get that far. HF 4" 3 jaw got me there and yes I used a socket under the puller so the clutch stud didn't get pressed against. Digging around for stuff to "press" the bearing out looks promising....
05-21-2017
Persistance
05-21-2017
Victory! Its fixed. What a PITA.
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