Cam install, so many misfires TCC wont lock

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-15-2016

About to pull the engine again, wishing I would have cammed it when I had the engine out last.

Basicly im looking for more power, mods are SD headers, full size ic, HP tuned by me, AL 104s, 3.3 pulley. I know i can pulley down but looking for more raw hp from a cam before I waste $ on a pulley. Stuck between xp vs and xpz cam. I'm set on the double roller but I'm not sure what valve springs to run with each cam, lift etc.

Mainly need some advice where to go from here and what kind of setup to go with, I know e85 works but it's 20 mins out of my way to get it. Rather run race gas lol. Turbo would be fun but a little costly I'd rather pro charge my 6.2.

Northsar tb and maf? Bigger injectors, high flow pump? Meth? So many options need just some guidance here.

**SgtMarshal** · 11-15-2016

I run an XP cam with 130 lb springs. I went with crow cams 130's, but I've heard good things about the PAC 1218's. VS cam is a bit more mild, and I think ZZP says with the XPZ you need head work done. you can leave your throttle body stock, or go with a north star throttle body and a LQ4 maf. you won't max out a stock maf, but a bigger throttle body helps to make more power, but sometimes people have issues with the northstar throttle body, like me. I ran the N* tb for a while, then went back to stock because of tps issues. you could probably run a 2.8 pulley with an xp cam and a full size intercooler, but it would be wise to start at something like a 3.0.

you will need 42's or bigger injectors and a fuel pump rewire. I've never run methanol, so can't say much about it. E85 is race gas, I pay 1.70 a gallon for it. I drive a couple hours to go get it, and buy about 25 gallons at a time. I don't drive my grand prix every day, so it's no big deal for me. I just picked up a 55 gallon drum so I can start hording the E85. I bet if I had an intercooler, with my XP cam and E85, I could run a 2.6" pulley.

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-15-2016

Thanks great info. How's the lope with the xp? Do I have to worry about my lift with an xp cam? Just slap it and the 130s in there and I'm good to go? Never done a cam before.

**SgtMarshal** · 11-16-2016

I turned the idle up so you can't really hear the lope. There isn't too much lift to worry about head work with the XP cam. I had a mechanic do the install, so I can't answer any installation questions.

**mguzzo** · 11-16-2016

VS cam is the easiest on the stock valvetrain. it has good midrange torque. with headers, IC, northstar / LQ4 , 42.5#, and a decent tune you will get near 300 whp on a 3" pulley. That's a low 13 / high 12 quarter mile.

**SgtMarshal** · 11-16-2016

another thing I remember about the XP cam is that tuning is required to remove the P0300 code because the car will think there are random multiple misfires for some reason. The XP cam has better top end than the VS cam and makes a little more power, and you can run a little smaller pulley with the XP, but plenty of people are happy with the VS cam because it has better low and midrange power.

**Burbman** · 11-16-2016

Opinions on the Intense S1X cam vs. these ZZP cams?

**Explicit_Spade** · 11-16-2016

The S1X and XP are close to the same specs if I remember right.

The XP is a pretty good cam. The top end with it is nice, and the lope is okay (but generally overhyped). It's one of the best stock head cams.

The XPZ is going to give you more power, and better lope, but needs ported heads.

Northsar tb and maf? Yes
Bigger injectors, high flow pump? Yes, and a re-wire
Meth? Not even once.

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-16-2016

Does the vs require the double roller like the xp? What valve springs with the vs?

**Explicit_Spade** · 11-16-2016

For the VS cam ZZP says: If the engine has less than 100k miles, then the stock valve springs can work if you keep the shift point at 6000rpm. However we recommend at least the 90# valve springs and Retainers that we offer.

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-16-2016

I think I'm going to go with xp, explicit is it just as simple as slapping in a cam and springs? Do I need to worry about lift? Etc

**ItHurtz** · 11-16-2016

s1x that sht

**Burbman** · 11-16-2016

I have heard good reviews on the S1X so wondering why OP wasn't considering. Also what tune? Canned ZZP tune with their cam? I'm doing SD headers over the winter and am thinking of a cam also, have many of the same questions.

**GTPpower** · 11-17-2016

Xp and s1x are almost the same cam. Either will make you happy. It's just preference.

You will need milled retainers and viton valve seals for clearance with either cam.

If you want to do heads, go with the xpz or is3. If not, stick with the xp or s1x.

**machinegunsquid** · 11-17-2016

I went with a slightly different grind when I cammed mine.
Comp Cams 76-8029
Very similar to the XP cam, specs are:
Duration: 264/274
Duration @.50: 210/220
Lift .531/.531
LSA 115*

Had a good lope, but nothing crazy. Pulled strong to 6400 (shift point on my setup) I ran a stock replacement timing chain without issue. I also ran comp cams 105# springs with the modded steel retainers.

N* throttlebody really helped out too, way better throttle response.

All of which is for sale, *cough cough*

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-24-2016

So I think I'm gong to do the XP with the double roller and 130#s. I need zzp modified retainers, valve seals, thicker front gasket, and machined oil pump cover? Stock 7" pushrods? Am I going to have the correct install hight? Missing anything here?

Based on what I have read it sounds like its best to delete the balance shaft gear and be done with it.

Reccomended injectors and fuel pump?

**ItHurtz** · 11-24-2016

roller needs to be machined, casper hot wire for the stock fuel pump is all you need for pump gas.

**SgtMarshal** · 11-24-2016

double roller timing chain won't go on without removing the balance shaft gear. the camfer might be off a little on the cam gear. I bought my rollmaster double roller used, the guy I got it from didn't have it machined, I took some measurements and compared it to the oem cam gear and they were pretty damn close, so I installed it and haven't had any issues with it. you can put bigger injectors on if you are going to run a 3.1" pulley or smaller. I wouldn't mess with the pushrods, stock ones are fine. if you get a machined oil pump cover you won't need a thicker front cover gasket.

**94GrandPrixSE** · 11-24-2016

I can't just remove the gear and leave the shaft?
Also zzp doesn't say anything on their website about machining the roller which is why I'm lost here.

To run the *double roller, the balance shaft gear must be removed. To save additional weight the balance shaft can removed altogether but this requires plugging the rear oiling hole. The Rollmaster has a much tighter fit, so the timing chain tensioner is no longer used. Since this chain is larger, we recommend swapping your oil pump cover for our Machined version, and run our Extra Thick Front Cover Gasket.

Double chain sets are recommended for engines running aftermarket valve springs.
*Due to potential front cover clearance issues on some cars, we recommend running our thicker front cover gasket and our machined oil pump cover when installing the double roller.
The Cam position sensor magnet pushes in from the backside in the hole that is recessed.

**SgtMarshal** · 11-24-2016

don't trust zzp. it is their job to sell stuff. people had issues with the rollmaster double roller chain because it was originally developed by an Australian company for Australian 3800's. there wasn't a big difference, but there was enough that some people had issues with the chain because it didn't fit like it should have. for this reason, some people will use 90 lb springs and a stock timing chain.

you can just take the gear off and leave the shaft. that is what I did.