Cam install, so many misfires TCC wont lock

i did a top swap over a year ago now, dont sweat it. not a big deal really. buy new bolts, or head studs. you'll need a degree gauge too if you use tty new bolts. a long breaker bar is a must or a pipe on the end of a short one. i swear you think the bolts are gonna snap when you degree them, you've never made a bolt so tight in your life and not had it snap lol

you also want to take a old head bolt, cut a groove in the threads on two sides then put it in each head bolt hole in the block and remove it, this cleans the threads out so your tq'ing is proper.

i used felpro head gaskets too.

Might as well do both head gaskets right?

and i also sprayed both sides of the head gaskets with that copper gasket spray, hung them on a hook and sprayed 2 coats on both sides and laid them on tacky still.

not sure if thats really needed but i figured it cant hurt any.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 94GrandPrixSE

Might as well do both head gaskets right?

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take em both off and you may as well port em lol

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6gl1nht2.jpg

How did you clean up the surfaces? Just a razor and brake clean?

yup. theres not much to clean off really, some carbon residue and a little old gasket film.

this was before cleaning/scraping the deck, i was cleaning the piston tops of carbon.

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...pssfzanbck.jpg


and the head before cleaning

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...psrts19bum.jpg

all cleaned up. ported, polished. put about 18-20 hrs into them.

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...psdbo0tpuj.jpg

even if you were to just polish them and make then smooth inside is a vast improvement.

Wire wheel. Brake cleaner. Oven cleaner. Rinse repeat Wish I had an easy answer

Where did you get your torque specs and sequence not seeing any write ups.

Start at the inside right hand bolt and work in a X pattern
the bolts or studs come with the torque specs

http://www.grandprixforums.net/webki...5b1c/imagejpeg


http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...0-Torque-specs

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ue-spec-thread pot #2 has the heads.

Impact everything.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psyjrw7ga0.jpg

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psyjrw7ga0.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psdv6y8byj.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...pss7uu0znd.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psf9kjerkm.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psj8pbaexs.jpg

Looks like I was floating a valve... explains the leak, whats next? other than new valves?

hows that spring looking? som-bishh hit the piston.

needs a valve job at min id think at this point. see if the valve stem is bent too.

I was wondering what that nick was

Spring got mixed up with the others when I put the 90#s on. The valve looks perfectly straight but it must be bent juuusst enough to cause a leak. So new valves and valve job? Should I mill the heads flat? Alum heads? Lol

I would consider getting the heads milled, but it will raise the compression ratio, so you might have to run a bigger pulley or higher octane fuel. a valve job for sure.

you just installed the cam right? a stock spring should not let the valve hit. cause by the looks of that piston that valve has been messed up for a long time.

take it too a shop, ask for their recommendation of what to do with it. maybe they will fix the one valve seat. but im sure they would want to do all of them. it maybe best to do both heads too if they say this one needs a full rebuild.

The new cam isn't in yet I was about to put it in when I discovered the leaky valve. How else could it hit the valve?