L67 top-swap onto L26...on an ultra low budget

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

I've got a 04 GT that needs a tranny, and I've miraculously found one (JY, 122k), but to go with the trans, I'm planning a top swap. There's a burnt 02 GTP in the neighboring JY and I'm thinking about using it as the donor. The 02 engine caught fire at some point, but it didn't do too much damage, the plastic didn't burn off so it wasn't a terribly hot fire. None of the sensors are salvageable, heads and valve covers are iffy, the TB is in deplorable condition, and the only other s/c 3800 I can find is a series 1('96 olds). I was originally hoping for a 04+ gtp just to make it so much easier but all the way up in interior Alaska, pickings are really slim. Like, slimmer than Slim Jims kinda slim. With so little in the way of parts, this car is definitely going to be complicated, possibly dangerous, definitely hazardous to your health in the engine bay dept. I'm prepared for some fab work, and lots of soldering. The questions that I still have after reading as many threads as I could find on the matter:

1. Is the harmonic balancer from the L67 a requirement or just a recommended? I know the pulley systems are different, but how different, and is it possible to make it work?

2. ZZP has an adapter for bolting a L67/L36 TB onto a Gen 5/L26 UIM, but I am wondering if it can just be flipped around, or if I need a tap & die set and a block of aluminum.

3. I will be porting EVERYTHING, to include the front and rear manifolds. I'm also thinking of wrapping the manifolds (no idea if that will help with KR, but I'm hoping someone else has at least tried this and has wisdom on the subject), Any other modifications I can make to the stock hardware?

4. I dont have the funds yet to spring for headers, a professionally designed IC, cam & rockers, or anything that would have to be shipped... so most of my mods will probably be home-built or things used in a way for which they were never intended. My question is, What is most important/effective for keeping KR down with a blower? I've already got 1 step colder plugs ready and a CAI, but I know I will need much, much, much more...the prideful heart demands it.

5. If the valve covers are beyond salvage, is there much difference between the two? and if the heads are in similarly deplorable condition, whats my next option? I suppose I could copy ZZP's L36 kit and just drill out the LIM for injectors, but I would need specs and documentation... Unless someone knows who to talk to at ZZP for getting custom/partial kits, because extra parts are not in the budget. But I'm definitely going to replace some gaskets, maybe get rid of a few superfluous systems...

6. I'm planning on a Gen 5 blower as soon as one becomes available, but I have not seen one single 04+ GTP up here as of yet. I keep hoping that somebody just drops one off at one of the JYs...(I've been in all of them so much that they pretty much know me by name by now, and at least two are looking for parts for me just because I've brought people and business with me on multiple occasions) If anyone is up in Alaska and has parts or advice, please hit me up.

7. Is there any easier way to explain the BBV? I've read through three threads and still dont understand how to hook it up so it works with the traction control and wont set engine codes...

and finally...

8. If the PCM desperately needs to be tuned/flashed in order for the car to be driveable, and I can not find a "tuner dude" who knows what he is doing, can someone post links to threads or sites that have decent software and walkthroughs? I only have one PCM, so I can't afford to fvck this one up.

I will be posting pics and updates, along with anything new I figure out as I plow headfirst into dangerous territory.

**SubwayGuy** · 05-11-2016

With the BBV, you only need the top vacuum hose attached. The bottom one can be left open to the atmoshpere.

Yes, you need valve covers from an L67 or L32. Because the injectors go into the heads rather than the LIM.

You will need an L67 or L32 harmonic balancer as a supercharged engine has 2 belt systems.

If you cannot afford headers (HIGHLY recommended, I got mine new for $160 shipped), you can port the stock exhaust manifolds.

And if you don't get that PCM tuned, you can kiss your top swap and trans goodbye. You must get a tune. There's people on here who can help you out.

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

I thought the same, just wanted to verify. I might not be able to use the L67 heads. The valve covers on the 02 are still there, but the oil cap is burnt into a donut with a small hole and the hood has been MIA for a while so IDK if water has gotten into the top of the heads. I plan on emailing ZZP later today to ask if they had to add any material to their modified LIM to hold the injectors. It looks like it, so I might just order their LIM or find a TIG welder. I've got enough tools to machine most of it (drill press, vise, digital calipers, large workbench, dremel, access to a CNC if it comes to that) and I wont be putting anything on the car until I have everything ready to bolt together and plug in. I'm not moving forward with this too quickly, since I'm already dropping $$$$ on a trans, so I will be checking and double checking on everything. Where did you get headers? I'm planning on porting and polishing the L26 intake and exhaust before the top swap just to get a feel for the manifolds and I've got spares on speed dial in case I do a dumb, but I've still got some time before that before I really start into it. I also have a Gen 1 s/c'd parts car available, but I seriously doubt that I can get ANYTHING useful out of it for a Gen 3 or 5... maybe a couple of bolts or some spare exhaust pieces. I'm doing as much research as I can, since I'm pretty isolated and pretty broke, but I don't get nervous about building parts from scratch, I've done it before.

**Scottydoggs** · 05-11-2016

this is way to much typing for a top swap. fire dont hurt the heads, take em off remove the springs change the valve seals if need be, lap the valves if they are rusty.

hell port and polish the heads while off, or just polish em, anythings a help.

zzp ss90 kit is a over priced item and not worth it.

**SubwayGuy** · 05-11-2016

Yeah, whatever you do, do not buy ZZP's rip off top swap.

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

All I would want is the LIM, which I might be able to modify the L67 on my own.

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

Subway, where did you get those headers?

**SubwayGuy** · 05-11-2016

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

Subway, where did you get those headers?

Scottydoggs let me know about them from a guy who was selling them on the Regal forum. You just gotta find someone who is selling them new or used and you're almost guaranteed a lower price.

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

Alright, kinda figured there wasn't any commercially available headers for $160. Another good note, I heard rumor of a shop in North Pole that has a tuner, so all I should need is a way of getting the GP 20 miles down the road... IDK if it would hurt it, but I don't want to risk driving it after the swap before getting the tune.

**SubwayGuy** · 05-11-2016

Originally Posted by WarStryker13

Alright, kinda figured there wasn't any commercially available headers for $160. Another good note, I heard rumor of a shop in North Pole that has a tuner, so all I should need is a way of getting the GP 20 miles down the road... IDK if it would hurt it, but I don't want to risk driving it after the swap before getting the tune.

Just don't hook up the S/C belt and you'll be good. And obviously don't WOT it at all. Make sure they know how to tune a 3800 though.

**WarStryker13** · 05-11-2016

I just heard of them this afternoon, I'll call tomorrow to ask questions and get a feel for them.

**WarStryker13** · 05-12-2016

So the only places that have a tuner are down in Anchorage... 360 miles south of me. So I'm going to have to postpone this top swap plan, unfortunately. I'm still going to do some light modding, moderate porting, and lots of polishing inside and out. :P and I just started to get really excited about this too... I think I will try to find a Gen 5 blower, save up for decent headers and other stuff. Thank you all for the advice and info, it was greatly appreciated and I've learned alot. I think I'll do a post on all the painting and polishing I'll do in the meantime...

**Scottydoggs** · 05-12-2016

how much does the shop want to tune it?

cause you can buy a DHP tuner new for 250 and tune it yourself.

**WarStryker13** · 05-13-2016

Its not the price, (which is only $125), its the 5+ hour drive down there, IF the roads are clear, I don't hit a moose, and the entire state is not on fire. I don't have a trailer or a truck to tow it, either... with that much logistics just to get the PCM tuned I think I'll just hold off on this idea.

I know, its sad. I just crawled under it for the first time since getting up here, I am horrified at what I have found. There's A METRIC FVCK TON to be done before I do much else with the engine...

**WarStryker13** · 06-02-2016

I'm back onto this idea. lol the JY was liquidated so I had less than an hour to pull everything that I could. Got the gen III and lim for 20 bucks, though it was a negative on the heads (front one had a big crack in it). All of the bolts are fine except one, it's the longest silver stud directly beside the TB, firewall side. it's slightly bent. lol... Now to decide on whether to get heads from somewhere else, or modify the L67 LIM. I've got a buddy with a TIG welder, if that helps lol. IF I can't get the heads from somewhere else for cheap, I could have him, since he's better at it than me, lay a circular bead on the outside hump of the runner directly before it goes to the head. Then it's just a matter of drilling out the bungs for the injectors. I'll have to do custom fuel rails, fab my own TB adapter plate (99 bucks from ZZP? effin aayy man. lol) and I'll look for some headers, since used plogs are getting pretty rare and zzp is still out of stock. but with all that, new sensors for the gen III, and a tune I should be up and running with... I'm going to call it a dirty sloot top swap. you get exactly what you pay for lol

**WarStryker13** · 06-03-2016

Got the blower pulled apart, looks pretty good, considering the fact that it has sat, perfectly still, for years... the oil smelled SO BAD. I didn't know it could go rancid, but somehow it did, really strong sulfur mixed with dead, rotting...things. But I got the old oil drained, dabbed out what I could, put it back together and I'll grab a bottle or two when I get over to O'Reilly's tomorrow. I'm gonna wire wheel the case this weekend and start working on the lim. I might paint it, I might not, idk yet. but I have pics finally! Oh! and I have another lead on a local shop with a tuner, MTR Transmission and Auto, in North Pole, AK. I haven't found a website or phone number yet, but I'll try and get in contact with them.

what I found at the JY

what I ended up walking away with 30 minutes before they closed the gate

what I found inside the snout, mildly interesting (if anyone can tell me what it means, I'll give you 5 bucks lol)

and finally the physical proof that supercharger oil can go rancid...and leave marks on the gears

I can still smell it...

**markpa** · 06-03-2016

I have changed supercharger oil 2 times now and it always seem to stink

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**WarStryker13** · 06-03-2016

A buddy of mine just bought an Impala SS, I was curious so we checked... his was like roses compared to mine. still had the burnt sulfur, but to a much, much lesser degree and without the rotten egg/meat smell. Also, after wiping down the snout with a damp cloth, i noticed that the grey paint had been burned off in some areas... so I have a feeling that the old oil in mine had actually started boiling inside the snout during the fire, since I'm pretty sure that paint can withstand like, 1000*F. Aluminum melts at 1,221*F, so I know it didn't get that hot.