Well I ended up not having to pull the brake booster, A/C lines can be snuck by. You do have to remove the transmission dip stick, but make sure to place pan underneath or you'll dump 2 qrts on the garage floor, lol.
I had to remove the air box/duct, throttle linkage/bracket, ABS module/bracket with master cylinder (Tip - leave master to ABS module lines intact and pull as one unit. Also, buy metric bolts with thread tape and hand tighten in so minimal fluid and bleeding is required), Transmission dip stick (Tip - make sure pan is under to catch), vacuum hose to brake booster.
Then you can yank out the drier, liquid and suction lines.
I replaced both liquid and suction lines along with the drier and all orings. I lubed the orings with NAPA Syle-glyde. Put a nitrogen pressure test around 100 psi and soaped all my joints. Then I pulled a deep vacuum for around an hour. Left gauges hooked up over night and made sure in the morning I still had between -29 to -30 in HG before filling.
I used ID's - first charge (11 oz of 134a, 1 oz of oil and 0.5 oz of drying agent), then standard 134a with UV dye finally one more can of striaght 134a with no dye or oil. Sticker called for 2.25lbs of R134a. So I used 3 cans which got me pretty close, I may still be a couple ounces shy but will monitor pressures when the ambient temp gets up there.
It was only 61F ambient and my center vent was dumping 34F to 37F consistant.
Scanned with black light after running AC for an hour and did not see any signs of leaks anywhere.
Thanks for all the help
