Thread: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits

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  1. #1 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you can, but thats "really not recommended"

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  2. #2 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    GrandPrix Junkie SgtMarshal's Avatar
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    I saw this post and the guy used rubber fuel lines to add the fuel pressure regulator.

    http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...Fiero-Version)
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  3. #3 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you can, but its really not a good idea. hose fails, rubs through, it just the pressure in the hose can bust it.

    back in the day a friend changed his rad in a 77 caprice, the trans lines twisted, so he used enforced rubber hose and two clamps on both sides.

    dont ya know the lines blew and his car burned in my driveway. aka the FD had to come put the fire out. ive never used a rubber line since.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    GrandPrix Junkie SgtMarshal's Avatar
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    I'm just trying to figure out if there is an easier way to either make my rails work, or to convert a returnless fuel log system to a return style.
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  5. #5 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    You have to get "fuel injection" hose, different than regular fuel hose. I had to use a section with double clamps to connect the plastic line from the tank to the fuel rail. The Dorman nylon kit kept leaking at the splice barb.
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  6. #6 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    as long as you take off one line at a time, pre bend the new to the old one. things should go smooth. that nicopp is the sh it! bends like butter.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: 98: Complete brake and fuel line kits 
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    Well, it's been a fun job and should be wrapping it up this Saturday night. Word of advice if anyone else plans to do this...I ended up pulling the master and ABS unit as a whole out of the car. Trying to save bleeding the master, but we'll see. This is the only way you can successfully attempt to snake the lines along the firewall.

    I personally think it's impossible to bend the line one at a time and stick them in there without dropping the motor and trans. What I ended up doing was bending all the lines along the firewall outside the car, then inserting them into the clips also outside the car. I extended the lines about a foot past where the lines would bend under the car and union them together with lines under the car. You can easily snake the firewall lines together as a whole back in there. Of course, once the lines are all connected, you'll have to verify the lines run along the firewall didn't move and aren't rubbing each other.

    Also, it's crazy what local auto parts stores want for brass fittings...3-4 bucks a pop. Buy them online. I would literally have 100 bucks in fittings, where now I have 35. The quick connects towards the back of the car were stuck cause the lines were so rusted, but be patient they will come out. Luckily my tool can bubble ends for the quick connects too.
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