What did you do to your car today? Vol 2.0

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Originally Posted by hensleya1

After talking with John Rucker at Intense he thinks it's the injectors not opening up quickly enough. I'm on 42# injectors with a gen v, 3.0 pulley, fsic, and N* TB.

If the pump wasn't keeping up, it would eventually lean out as the residual pressure in the rail diminishes. Thing is, once I've given it a bootful, I can leave it there all day... so it's not the pump?

I'm going to get 60#'s this week and see if that fixes it... In either case I'm going corn and will eventually get a walbro, whenever the venturi pumps are back in stock.

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John Rucker, same guy who told me the Aeromotive Stealth 340 is a rebadged Walbro 255...

Anyways, have you tweaked your AE tables? I'm honestly just learning this stuff, but I thought that's exactly what they are for?

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AE Tuning Basics - What is acceleration enrichment?

The standard AE under the Acceleration Wizard can be thought of like the accelerator pump on a carb, which shoots in some extra fuel when you suddenly hit the throttle to compensate for the massive influx of air when you open the throttle blades. The goal is to compensate for this influx of air for an instant during that transient until the the transient is over and the VE tables are again providing the proper amount of fueling.

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Figured pics would help
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psc9bg5yaw.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psvw2tdax6.jpg

let the Asian girl out of the trunk already will ya?


looks even better tinted. :th_thumbsup-wink::th_thumbsup-wink:

Washed it...looked like it was parked in hell for a week lol

Debadging the gp at the moment. most of it came off, just can still see where dealer and grand prix was on the trunk. Havnt done the sides yet, probably tuesday i will paint my roof rails and get the rest of debadging done, heres how the rear end looks.
http://i57.tinypic.com/2q84v0i.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2drgzth.jpg

Should i use a claybar on that or what to do to make it look like no badge was there. Used 3m adhesive remover, towel, and hair dryer



Also, seen this on my g6, has the 3.5 engine, what appears to be leaking here its right in the middle of the engine on the front side.
http://i62.tinypic.com/otevip.jpg

Clay bay maybe, but a buffer with some compound will do way more.

And all 3.5's leak, either the oil pan or front cover gaskets go first. Just clean it all up with some purple power or something and wait for it to return.

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Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Clay bay maybe, but a buffer with some compound will do way more.

And all 3.5's leak, either the oil pan or front cover gaskets go first. Just clean it all up with some purple power or something and wait for it to return.

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Ill try some clay bar on it, what type of compound should i use? Wax? hope i can get it nice and clean. This is what i was worried about

Compound is before wax. Compound is slightly abrasive and what is done before wax. A simple polishing compound should work.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Compound is before wax. Compound is slightly abrasive and what is done before wax. A simple polishing compound should work.

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Ill give it a try.

You will definitely need a compound. Go to your local store and pick up some Meguiar's ultimate compound and some foam applicators. You could get pretty good results by hand but of course better by machine. It's wise to use some sort of wax or synthetic wax. A synthetic like NXT or Ultimate Wax would be my recommendation as they last longer than a typical carnauba. You may have ghosting around the location of the emblem since that paint was covered.

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Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Figured pics would help
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psc9bg5yaw.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psvw2tdax6.jpg

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mmmm sexy. so when can i drive it? lol kidding

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Originally Posted by Mirraco

http://i60.tinypic.com/2drgzth.jpg

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I know I am a bad boy for this, but Brake-kleen took my badge residue off. Put wax on after of course.

Its hard to really tell from the pic (on my phone anyway) but that looks is if it may have been painted around or over the emblem. If theres a clearcoat edge around the script you may end up wanting to put it back. I would suggest a two product approach to trying to buff all that off. Compound then polish.

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Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

I know I am a bad boy for this, but Brake-kleen took my badge residue off. Put wax on after of course.

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Since you were brave enough to say something like that, I'll say what I was thinking. Naphtha. Works awesome on sticky stuff on painted surfaces. Used it many times on painted plastic dashes to get GPS pad material off without pulling any paint.

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Originally Posted by idrivejunk

Its hard to really tell from the pic (on my phone anyway) but that looks is if it may have been painted around or over the emblem. If theres a clearcoat edge around the script you may end up wanting to put it back. I would suggest a two product approach to trying to buff all that off. Compound then polish.

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Nah, it looks like it would normally look when removing a badge. I had the same look when I pulled my GM badges off the fenders.

And as far as The Guz's comment, Meguiar's isn't really needed in something like this. Cheap Turtle Wax brand compound would easily do the job. I'm all for trying "better" name brand waxes and sealants, but when it comes to compound and polish I don't think it really matters. I got EXCELLENT results with Turtle Wax compound and polish, even when I did it by hand.

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Originally Posted by bandook

Since you were brave enough to say something like that, I'll say what I was thinking. Naphtha. Works awesome on sticky stuff on painted surfaces. Used it many times on painted plastic dashes to get GPS pad material off without pulling any paint.

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I don't know wtf Naphtha is, but another "trick" is to use lighter fluid, like for Zippos.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

I don't know wtf Naphtha is, but another "trick" is to use lighter fluid, like for Zippos.

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Lol. Basically same thing. Just way cheaper. Gallon is maybe 20 bucks.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Nah, it looks like it would normally look when removing a badge. I had the same look when I pulled my GM badges off the fenders.

And as far as The Guz's comment, Meguiar's isn't really needed in something like this. Cheap Turtle Wax brand compound would easily do the job. I'm all for trying "better" name brand waxes and sealants, but when it comes to compound and polish I don't think it really matters. I got EXCELLENT results with Turtle Wax compound and polish, even when I did it by hand.

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The turtle wax compounds are very old school. It can introduce small scratches/defects as it's very abrasive. Ultimate Compound uses the latest abrasive technology and won't cause those defects. Mothers professional compound would also be a better option. Mothers and Meguiar's are cheap. You are looking at about $10-12 for a bottle. Not expensive at all. Just stating the facts. But hey we don't all appreciate the true art of detailing and taking the paint to a whole other level.

:shrugs:

Like I said, I got great results when using the TW brand on a severely scratched truck. Truck looked almost brand new.

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Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...psqvzakud2.jpg

Another yellow top, man optimas quality has gone to **** I been through quite a few. Thankful the guys at advance know me well and keep warrantying and exchanged them out. Got another 3 years with this one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Get a NAPA AGM battery. You'll love it.