blew the motor up in the 99 poverty race car.. woot.
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blew the motor up in the 99 poverty race car.. woot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6z49u4g3GQ
weeeeeeeee
Was gonna switch out my idler pulley on the GT2, but after it came off like an absolute bare...., found the bolt threads were kinda crapped on the bolt, and the threads in the tensioner thing were crapped out. And, the idler pulley had already been replaced, so, guessing someone fricked it up when they put it back together. Ugh. So, guessing '99+ Series II N/A is the same as Series III N/A? Hoping so, as the local yard doesn't have any Series III engines. I'm also guessing that S/C'd car's ones are different...?
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...psjqv5mppo.jpg
Well, I was in luck, local yard just got a 7th gen in. Engine was kinda shoved into the firewall, but got the whole assembly there off.
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...pslvdforko.jpg
Saw a grey '07 SpEd few days back on the road, might mean there's a white, black, and grey SpEd locally. Didn't think many were made, lol.
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^^^what yard good to know if I need some interior parts
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Roadside Salvage - Erhard, MN. Think it was an '05 given the rims ('05+), dual exhaust, GT badge, but essentially a base package besides that... tan/black interior too.
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Got the GT2 together, now it has a new noise: clickity clack coming from the engine..... Valve train issue?
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...psj54ri60t.jpg
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Left the car with the shop again 2 weeks ago for them to keep driving it to see if it would act up for them. Finally last Thursday I got a call that it did it for him. Broken motor mount. $212 later she was done and it hasn't had a problem since, 1 week later.
Fingers crossed that fixed it.
That would be impressive if that was the cause. I drove our impala today for once, it did it maybe twice in like 65 miles of driving
thats coolant in the oil righ tthere, aka spun bearing is the clicky clicky sound.
Yay join the club lol
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Yeah it ran ok the first pass. Had a decent amount of KR in the burnout and launch. Figured meh.
Did a few more passes .. the cutout was open.. couldn't hear ****.. car went from a 13.5 to a 14.5. Hmm. Came back to the pits and buddy said that doesn't sound right. I closed the cutout and anything above 1800 rpm's it rattles. Bearing is done. Oil looks like glitter on the dip stick.
here's a screen shot of the pass :) Column L is KR :)
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...psofcwrkbf.jpg
Something with the torque management wasn't turned off. It didn't have any KR on the street. Oh well.. **** happens.
@Jared, Tear the heads and LIM off, see whats what I suppose. If the bottom end is good I'll see about fixing it (if that's not cost-prohibitive). Kinda sucks though because I was going to drive it the next month while fixing a multitude of things on my GTP. Such is life though.
Wait, Scotty, it's a spun bearing? Ugh....
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We have no way of knowing. With oil and coolant mix going through the lifters and pushrods, that is enough to make it tick and click/clatter because lack of oil.
A lower end knock that is much louder would be a spun bearing.
Likely the intake gaskets failed, head gaskets aren't has common.
You could drain the oil and coolant, then dump some old oil in the motor to actually run the car and see if the noise stops or is actually a rod knock from a spun bearing.
Having no coolant in the motor here will help because now nothing can mix with the oil. You can run it with no coolant for a few minutes without worry, it will take longer than that for the oil to get too hot and do damage.
It certainly didn't sound like a loud lower-end knock to me or my two brothers.
I was thinking it ran Dex most of it's life, and was switched to green too late because the intake gaskets were already eaten up? IDK, seemed plausible..., suppose rip it apart and see what the block looks like with the LIM and heads off?
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I've done it once or twice and at my old job we have done it many times.
Sometimes you get cars in that we don't know what the issue is. It have no coolant and the oil is nasty, so we'd just drain both and add oil to make sure it still ran. If it was a bad knocking motor you'd stop right there and if not you'd then add coolant and pressure test it for leaks.