LOL, I'm not the only one who screams f*ck and other words when I hit crap in the road.
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LOL, I'm not the only one who screams f*ck and other words when I hit crap in the road.
rockauto will likely be the cheapest place to find a o2 sensor. add a code at check out makes shipping free. or advance auto on line and local pick up if your on a time crunch.
i cut the o2 plug off my cars harness, and added 3 foot of wire to it. ran the wire down the strut tower to the rack then right to the o2, nothing hot in the way.
Bought autolite 104's, ordered the acdelco wires, got 15' of 4 gauge wire for my sound system, got 2 matching reverse lights (one is blue, one is white atm), picked up a switch because I run a lot if cigarette lighter accessories and it's all hidden behind the dash, so I'm gonna put in a switch to shut off all potential power drains until I get it Booba'd with a relay from ignition or fuse box. I still have to fix the Aeroforce issue I've been having where it flashes when applied power until I unplug/replug into the OBDII port. Still have to run the wires for the rear speakers too, but at least I have that wire already
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Advance doesn't seem to have Delco's, Rock Auto does though for $37: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...id=433&jpid=10
eBay has Delco's for $30: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AC-DELCO...VUnaG1&vxp=mtr
So, I should run it like this:
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yup you got it. you can zip tie it tot he fire wall, run it a top the sway bar to the o2 wire. seems like a no brainer to me. not sure why other have not done it this way more often.
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Sweet, thanks! I'll grab some more loom from work to make it look pretty and some wire, get a male connector from the JY, and throw it all together.
what plug? you leave a few inches of wire on the cars harness o2 plug, then extend it.
the wires off the o2 sensor, one is stainless steel, solder wont stick to it. so making it longer from the o2 dont work out well.
make sure you solder and shrink tube the splices.
Oh, I was just going to do what the other guy did and extend it using two connectors so I didn't have to cut the factory harness, and could disconnect it on top the engine if ever needed. But I s'pose extending it from the connector on-top the engine would work well enough. I've got heat-shrink butt-connectors from work to extend the wires, would that work good enough? http://www.whiteproducts.com/images/...s/splices1.jpg
they work but are far from weather tight for the next 10 years or more.
soldering iron and flux core solder dont cost much. ( think harbor freight) takes a little time, but you know its done right and will last the test of time.
I wonder if this car will even be driving in 10 years, lol. I'll go the separate connector route with butt-connectors, that way in the future if someone has an issue they can just unhook the extender harness and re-do it or something. The cop cars I've taken apart that range from 4-9 years old were all doing fine with heat-shrink butt-connectors still, up behind the bumper and stuff.
Thanks for the advice though, really appreciate it, helps a lot and good info for the future.
The other day the e-brake decided to start turning off the "auto-on" lights when the e-brake is applied; it hasn't done that for about 4 years. Interesting. LOL
Took the subs out of the trunk and the rear end is sitting about an inch higher LOL. I knew they were heavy but damn
P.s. Vogtland's
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So I need some help, trying to run a power wire through the firewall, but the hole everyone is saying to use has tubing behind it facing down and it's full of water?
Where am I supposed to run this damn 4 gauge wire?
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IIRC theres a better place for wires in about the same spot but on the driver's side, on a GP. I was hunting for a good dash-out pic in my stash but no help. Didn't snap many with dash out. All I can figure is you're seeing with water in it must be the evap core case drain.
Can't you just drill a hole in the firewall the size you need, pop a grommet in it, run your wire(s) though, then go around it with strip caulk? I do that all the time at work for cop cars...
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