Thread: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice

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  1. #1 got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
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    I bought a 2001 gpgt last weekend and I have a ses light on as well as abs and was hoping to get some input from people who know more about these cars than i do before i start ordering parts, would really appreciate any help.

    noticeable symptoms: when i start it, it revs up a bit, like 1200-1600 then dies unless i give it gas, but it will usually start and run normally on the second try or after giving it gas, it stumbles a little bit for a second then will idle on it's own. once it's running the rpms surge during idle, from around 500 to 1k, it drives fine, until yesterday when it died while coming to stop, but started back up and ran fine the rest of the way home. The po had replaced the engine and trans with ones with around 100k on them, no knocking or anything, but the area was pretty far in the country, lot of dirt roads, car was muddy and the air filter is just, embarrassing, planning to get a k&n or spectere but heard the oil can cause problems with the maf sensor, should i stick with standard paper filters?

    First code is p0102 mass or volume air flow A circuit. they said it gave the same code 3 times?
    sounds straight forward, replace the maf, but that sounds to easy, and don't want to spend $150 on a sensor i don't need, was going to get some maf cleaner and see how that does, but was hoping to get input on this one as i have also read that the aftermarket mafs are junk and i should get a used one from a junk yard? based on the issues i am having along with the codes does it sound like it could be the maf? iac? map?

    P0128 repeated twice, coolant thermostat temp below, i assume this is a failed t-stat that it stuck open, the car does take a while to get warm and stays on the cool side of the temp gauge. I plan to get a stant super stat, is the 180* t-stat a good choice, or should i get the 195? everything is stock right now, I might get a cai/wai in the future and possibly a cat back to make some noise but nothing to extreme.

    p0440 evaporative emission, car had no gas cap when i bought it, did put one on there but haven't d/c battery to clear codes yet.

    p1811 i read about this one, but haven't noticed it, read that a shift kit can fix it, but also read that it will show when scanned but not pop a MIL so it not really an issue to me as of right now as i'm just trying to get it passable for state safety and emissions testing.

    C0035 left front wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction, sounds straight forward, replace the hub assembly, is there a recommended brand? i usually buy everything from advanced auto, but the drive works brand has mixed reviews and moog is expensive
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  2. #2 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    You cannot go cheap on hubs and expect them to last grab a Moog/timken/skf bearing and have a 3 year warranty.


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  3. #3 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
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    makes sense, would rather buy one once for 150, than buy 2 or 3 for 100 a pop
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  4. #4 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    I would jack up that left front and check for looseness of the bearing before buying new. Also be sure that the harness is moisture-proofed (still has all the wrap) because just a little moisture in the connection turns on that ABS light. So does any wiring trouble out by the wheels. I like to buy hubs locally so I can "feel" it before I leave the store. Regardless of brand, there can be defects. Experience wise, I use O'Reilly's and have had MasterPros be bad brand new and also fail prematurely. The Precision brand they sell (yellow/blue box) has been better, haven't been handed a bad one yet anyway.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  5. #5 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
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    I planned to check the wiring first, i got it cheap because the po's wife was ran off the road, has cosmetic damage but most everything else looks solid, but figure it could just be be something that got disconnected underneath. what do you mean by check for looseness? i've never dealt with hubs/bearing before so not sure what it is i'm looking for in telling if it's actually bad, was sort of going into this hoping my father in law knows more about it that i do with this one

    I will check out o'rieillys, never been there before but they are the only ones who carry a boot clamp kit for some reason so i'll be there anyway. I agree with you, i hate to order things like that when they could be doa, so everything i buy comes from advanced or autozone, mostly advanced because of the 30% off promo code i found
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  6. #6 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    Well if you have the wheel off the ground and are of average strength, you should be able to detect any looseness by grabbing the wheel / tire and trying to wiggle it with hands at 6 and 12 o'clock. Best if you can have the frame on stands and jack under the control arm to limit slop. But just take hold of the tire and try to wiggle it up and down. ANY detectable play indicates bad bearing. With serviceable and adjustable old car type tapered roller bearings this isn't the case. But for sealed bearings thats the decider... is it loose.

    Of course if the wheel speed sensor is bad thats part of the hub so you might have to toss a good bearing just cuz the sensor is bad. FWIW, while you have the car jacked up, try to move the front wheels side to side with the steering wheel locked, hands at 9 and 3 positions. Any play there is in the steering, probably tie rod ends first. You can also stick the end of the jack handle under the tire at this point and have somebody pry up while you stare at the ball joint to look for play in that part.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  7. #7 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
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    awesome, thanks that helps a lot

    I also forgot to mention, I unplugged the maf and the car ran the same as it does when plugged it, the only change i notice is by tapping it while plugged in the engine would drop in rpm and almost stall, i can't be in the car and outside at the same time to know how much it drops, but i'm assuming that this is a good indication that mine is bad, considering there is no difference in how the car runs with it plugged in or unplugged, just want to verify i'm on the right track. If it does need to be replaced, are there any decent brands to look for, or is finding a used one my best bet? will any maf from the same generation work?
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  8. #8 Re: got a couple ses codes, could use some advice 
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    got a couple map and mafs from the junkyard today and replaced the ones on the car, the map sensor was in two pieces, held together by the clips and plug lol, the MIL is now off which is awesome but it still has the same issues, starts and dies unless giving it gas, surging idle, and if you hit the gas pedal hard the rpm drops to like 4-500 then it takes off.

    going to check the egr, fpr and fuel filter next i guess, or running some injector cleaner through it, or maybe do the seafoam thing, but i'm sort of guessing at this point; could fresh plugs/wires/coil packs help? the oil needs changed but it's not like the light brown chocolate milk color and don't see any other indications that it might have a gasket leak, but i'm not exactly a mechanic so could be wrong, any ideas?
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