Need some advice on how I should Finnish my build

**selliott** · 01-23-2015

Honestly i wouldnt want it any "lopier" it has a nice idle without surging to much except at start up.
The bad news is you cant beat a nasty v8 for sound

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

Y do they need to b milled I thought with forced induction u don't want to have a higher compression

**selliott** · 01-23-2015

Originally Posted by revin24

Y do they need to b milled I thought with forced induction u don't want to have a higher compression

Lol im stupidly running 10 to 1 compression

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

That be true a v8 will always sound like a master pice but if it's close I'm happy lol

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

OK I got ya that was kinda a mistake huh lol

**16MustangVet** · 01-23-2015

Your all over the place here sorry man you need to narrow down what you want out of the car.

Cheap, fast, reliable, You only get to pick 2.

Forget about the sound, who gives a crap what is sounds like when the person in the other lane is behind you anyways. Ive had the idle argument with others before. I drive my car from the drivers seat inside the car, so I could care less what it sounds like.

Now back to the reliability question, reasons I don't like and intercooler. ( I had this in some other thread think I made it to like 10 reasons)

1. can cause vac leaks
2. ic core can leak coolant
3. flow pump can fail
4. lines can leak
5. front mount heat exchanger can get smashed
6. coils need to be moved to route ic lines
7. pointless on most builds if you can run E85 (max effort mega builds is a different story in that case id recommend turbo anyways)
8. have I mentioned cost?
9. ummm yeah for about the cost of an ic you can buy some ported heads that would be nice with a turbo kit down the road should you decide you want more hp, instead of selling crap you don't need on a turbo kit for example a WORTHLESS intercooler kit.....
10. if you cant run E85 forget about my entire list and hope you can avoid all the headache......

Again I cant stress enough if your going to mod these cars don't throw the wallet at the engine build then find out your walking because your transmission is history.....

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

The car is on a daily driver I have an envoy for that and I'm not going to run an ic but the trans is another story I need to do something about that I really don't want to buy one I'd rather do it myself but I don't know what I truly need to get to make it handle what I'm doing a couple buddy's of mine will help me build it but what do I need to get

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

Basically my street race car maybe track car for some weekend road racing

**selliott** · 01-23-2015

Vet has a good point, lets start simple you have the block and the heads so pick a cam then do the genv swap and run e85. Trans is a biggie tho you will definitely need one
I will not be any help with the trans questions i know what parts youll need but ive never built one.

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

Woops that was supposed to say it's not a daily driver it's been torn apart for two years now

**16MustangVet** · 01-23-2015

Input shaft, highly recommend TripleEdgePerformance valvebody, shift kit, 7/8s drive chain, hardened 4th hub, and new frictions and steels of course, those items should be fine up to around 350ish whp after that GMR transmission parts is where things start to get expensive real quick.

Edit: FOR THE LOVE OF GOD PEOPLE HIT THE EDIT POST BUTTON INSTEAD OF BACK TO BACK POSTS!
that way a simple thread doesn't end up 90 pages long!

**selliott** · 01-23-2015

Yes gmr parts hurt the pocket book fast

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

Lol how much more do u think my 250,000 mile trans will hold

**Scottydoggs** · 01-23-2015

Originally Posted by revin24

Lol how much more do u think my 250,000 mile trans will hold

not very long at all. hows the fluid look and smell?

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

Dude gotta tell u I don't have a clue if I remember rite it smelled fine and even still had a red hue to it

**Scottydoggs** · 01-23-2015

mine took a crap at 216,000 but the fluid was dark and smelt burnt. if you have been servicing it or its last owners did over its life, it could last a while.

dont expect it to last to long tho if your beating it every time you drive it.

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

I don't really expect it to last too long I just want to get the car running get it broke in an tuned and just make it until I'm ready to tart to build a trans probably next winter but if it goes down sooner than I guess I gotta roll with the punches lol

**Scottydoggs** · 01-23-2015

there is no real break in time. roller cam and lifters, the crank and rod bearings are what they are already. the rings, the harder you drive it right out the box the better they seat.

this aint a 350 with a flat lifter cam, like when you let it run at 3,000 rpm's for 30 minutes. that was to break the lifter and cam in. that games long over.

do a oil change 500 miles later and keep on driving it.

do crank the living piss out of it plugs out till you see oil pressure, you dont want to put fire to it till its oiled up good. dry start will hurt it a little if not kill it sometimes.

soak your new lifters in a tub of oil too for a few days before you used them. helps to have them as full of oil as possible.

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

I was taught in school at a skill center cuz my high school didn't offer automotive class it was Catholic lol that even now a days it is still important to start out easy on a motor so the Rings will seat then slowly ramp it up over a period of roughly 1,000 miles but that's what I was taught 12 yes ago lol

**revin24** · 01-23-2015

But for damn sure I'm going to crank the hell out of it and I have already a bunch of gauge to put in it I have 3 aero force, oil press, fuel press, boost/vac, air, and trans temp