Thread: Intake Manifold Runner Ctrl Stuck Open

Started getting a code yesterday...

P2004 Intake Manifold Runner Ctrl Stuck Open Bank1

cleared it and it came back today

what should I look at before I have to run it to a shop?

I have a 2008 Base GP

check the electrical connections and vacuum hoses around it. make sure there are no cracks on the hoses or breaks in the wires. good luck

Originally Posted by frosty

I wasn't aware a 3800 had any sort of runner control?

My thoughts exactly.

no idea, that's the code the car is throwing...

I cleared the code again, shut it down restarted and boom check engine P2004

YEP!, just checked it again.. I have two codes P2004 and P2431 the second one popped up tonight....

Guess I'll be replacing the air injection solenoid and see if that fixes it... things a pain in the ass to get to though

Or get a tuned pcm and delete that stupid system

Hey guys, any idea why this is doing this... I have an Innova 3130 canOBD2 reader my emission status is red (makes sense) but I have flashing systems (means they aren't initialized yet) they are CAT, EVA, AIR, O2S, HTR, EGR... These have been flashing from the day I bought the car brand new... and my emission state light has NEVER been green, it's always yellow.

any idea what would cause those systems to never initialize?

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Some of those do take upwards of 20-30min drives to go through a full test.

Not sure if you do drive the car enough miles at a time.

Drove it for 2hrs and over 150 miles today and they are still not initialized / blinking after checking with never shutting the engine off...

Ok, the dealer wants thousands to "diagnose and fix this"... no way in heck because it's not even guaranteed...

Now it's throwing a U1153 code in addition to P2431 and P2433

the original code I got never showed up again after I reset them the first couple times...

the weird thing is this all started this way... I did a remote start on my car, it was running fine, I got in turned the key to run, When I did that the car instantly died and started itself back up almost like it never died but I know it did for about 1 second... when it came back on that's when the CEL came on... and gave me the initial codes I got... that have been showing up ever since...

Well, I gave in and figured I'd try to fix it myself..

Codes I was getting were P0411, P2431 and P2433. Everything seemed to point to the Secondary Air Injection Check Valve / sensor.

This solenoid valve / Sensor assembly is in the back center of the engine compartment, and looks like a canister that has a tube from the air pump in the drivers front side of the engine bay to it and a metal corrugated tube from the bottom of it into an exhaust connection on the back of the engine to allow extra air into the exhaust stream.

Air pump seemed to be trying to run, so that wasn't the issue, relay (which is on the drivers side front wheel well, not in inside the fuse box hanging from a plastic hanger) worked fine, the 50 AMP fuse for it tested fine also. Only left two possible problems... a line was clogged or the valve was bad.

I got the valve assembly, which included a new bracket, the solenoid valve and sensor and a new corrugated pipe off Amazon for $150 and a new gasket which isn't included for $5

Gasket is ACDelco 219-600 Air Check Valve Gasket
Assembly is ACDelco 12619122 OE Service Secondary Air Injection Shutoff and Control Valve Assembly

Changing it was the most annoying part, but not too hard, hardest part was having the right tools that fit into tight spots..

1) Remove oil fill spout and the engine top cover it holds down
2) Remove the driver side support bar that connects from the front to the wheel well top (3 bolts total) and disconnect it from the cable that is clipped on to it underneath
3) Disconnect the MAF, remove the air intake tube and the PCV ventilation tube that plugs into it, remove from engine bay
4) take the tube from the air filter to the air pump off (compression clip on air filter box)
5) remove air filter box front and filter if you more room to get to the air pump under it
6) disconnect the air tube from the air pump to the Solenoid valve squeeze the plastic clip and pull back it will slide right off
7) remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the air tube on the right under side of the throttle body
8) disconnect the air tube from the solenoid / check valve the same way as you did at the air pump and then remove from engine bay
9) remove brake booster tube from engine so you have room to get to the valve bracket bolts
10) remove the wire plug from the solenoid / check valve top
11) remove the two 1/2" bolts infront of the valve. The valve is attached to a black metal bracket held in by four bolts. Two bolts on the top and two behind the engine.
12) disconnect the wire harness that goes to the O2 sensor behind the engine that is attached to one of the black brackets (the bracket that your engine cover slides into for support)
13) follow the bracket down the back, there are two more 1/2" bolts that are about 4 inches long that need to come out.. these are a pain to get out and in but it can be done with the right length wrench attachment.
14) on the bottom of the valve there is a tube that goes into another tube. this is where the gasket goes on, there are two 10mm nuts that need to come off here. remove them, it's tight but you can do it with a small wrench and a long neck 10mm socket
15) put it all back together in reverse, just remember to put a new gasket on

took me about 30 minutes to do with no experience doing this

I'll add that after doing this, my engine seems quieter at start up, the check engine light is gone now and hasn't come back yet (you will have to do a reset of the light to get it to go away of course)... saved me hundreds of dollars... dealer wanted $1,500 to diagnose it and repair it if it was the valve / sensor... cost me $160 after shipping