Decent, makes it quicker to remove the flex, thats for sure.
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05-24-2014
Decent, makes it quicker to remove the flex, thats for sure.
05-24-2014
Not going to lie I'm not impressed
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05-24-2014
Fvckin vultures HAHA, like Everrryyyyyy member pays out of pocket to help out the community............
Sh1t a wise man would take all the help available instead of being a negative nancy.
Just my 2 cents.
05-24-2014
5 Months for that?
Last edited by Pure2sin; 05-24-2014 at 10:28 PM.
05-24-2014
2 cuts 2 welds hence not impressed not being negative
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05-24-2014
He said it would be simple, and it is. Was I expecting more? Yes. Am I grateful for what we got? Yes, I'm not complaining at all, THANKS SNOWFLAKE!!!!
GMPP, Votland, Addco
05-25-2014
Wait, what am I missing here? He literally only moved the V-band clamp to the other side of the flex pipe? No change in the header geometry, no elimination of the sink trap, just easier access to an allegedly inferior flex?
Also, 400 series stainless steel is definitely magnetic and is less likely to have galvanic corrosion problems when mated to mild steel so it's frequently used for automotive products.
headers.jpg
I built "the jig" and cut through the bend with the flange off the sink trap. Used a sawzall for cuts because I was at home so I had to finish the bend angle on the grinder because I was off by about 7 degrees.
Used a 3 inch round piece of 316 pipe stock to fill out and shorten up where the flex was, but if you go catted and want to make another cut you can use the included straight pipe instead of sourcing extra parts.
Welded a 53009 Magnaflow to the flex, and it will clamp into the rear O2 flanged piece. The cat is about 2 inches longer then the included straight pipe but fits perfectly since you actually lose almost 2 inches in length removing the sink trap.
Reused the SD flex. Why? Because where it comes installed it flexes way too much because it's the only flex point. When the engine rocks the stock flex pipe feels it every time. Relocating it to a horizontal position allows the whole under car section to move on the hangers with the engine without flexing the flex pipe.
2 cuts. 3 welds. 4 hours. It took longer building the jig.
05-25-2014
The point is simplicity.
Anyone who buys these headers can take them to a shop and have these changes made for just a little extra cash.
No jig, and it'd be near impossible to throw the angles off enough to hinder install.
Now you can install these headers from the top, easily.
On top of that, flexpipe changes r&r in 20 minutes rather than hours.
These headers are exactly what you get when you spend over twice the money with the guy who doesn't even know what he's selling.
05-25-2014
The whole point was to disprove the wbs headers iirc
Originally Posted by theaceofspades
05-25-2014
Close... the point was to show people that for less than half the price you end up with the same headers.
Why buy from someone who may be intentionally misleading you?
05-25-2014
Wbody fixes crossover issue
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05-25-2014
No the point is what you just did isn't even close to how the WBS headers are modified. Will your way work, yes. There are a lot of ways to do something.
You leave out the facts that the WBS design (crossover being a part) is completely different and made to mock the ZZP design. You also get a whole downpipe with the WBS headers and a new flex etc.. A lot more welding cutting and fabricating that just two cuts.
It's not the same so stop claiming it is.
I do find it funny you tell everyone you are making a video on how to modify headers and 3/4 of that video has nothing to do with modifying headers.
Again this thread, your facts (based on assumptions) and so called "contest" are a joke.
05-25-2014
^Like button
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05-25-2014
Ditto, I was expecting a lot more. I was expecting something to come out looking like the jigged headers.
Originally Posted by The Sunfire Guy
05-25-2014
well **** you might as well just rock the motor forward more and put em in as you bought em....
05-25-2014
That's what I did and had no issues.
05-25-2014
this....
maybe now. i should just do a full out write up on doing it that way. with directions on where to cut/weld and make a big thread for it... Would sure help some people out. I didn't really find that helpful at all,...
05-25-2014
Wow....
Waited months and that's what you came up with. And still didn't address the stupid gooseneck bend that sits below everything in the undercarriage. I'm glad I went with my gut and decided not to wait on your video and instead modify them the old fashion way and gain tons of clearance.
05-25-2014
ebay headers suck from a flow standpoint anyways...sure they are better than pems/logs but jeeze id rather **** a rusty fuel door than ditch my easily modified PS headers that i can still install the rear header WITH the crossover/Y welded with just removing the TB.
**** that 3 bolt flange though, vband to replace that ****er
05-25-2014
These headers are exactly what people are getting when they buy from the reseller.
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