Thread: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement

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  1. #1 Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    2008 grand prix base
    95K miles
    No supsension/steering work since 30k miles

    So after tolerating clunking for awhile I decided to take a look at suspension components. I quickly noticed the right front outer tie rod bushing was torn and falling off. So I'm planning to do both front tie rods but I am wondering if I should try to tackle the inner tie rods as well. I would like to, but I get the sense they are significantly trickier than the outers. I know I need a special socket which I'll probably rent. Beyond that how tough are they? Sounds like I'd be working in limited space.

    Are there other suspension components I should consider replacing at this time as well? I noticed the control arm bushing were starting to tear at the bushing openings - should these be replaced?

    I couldn't find a good writeup on inner tie rods for the grand prix, anyone have one they know of one?

    Thanks in advance!
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  2. #2 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
    I live here. Slick2500's Avatar
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    Inner tie rods dont usually go bad, the steering rack usually goes before they do. Just replace the outers. Dont replace just the bushing for the lower control arms just buy new lower control arms as the entire control arm costs less than buying all the bushings and ball joints, I think Rockauto has the Moogs for like $45 a piece still.
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  3. #3 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    a quick how to for tie rod ends is:

    break the lock nut free on the inner rod shaft, then take the bolt off the bottom of the tie rod where its in the knuckle, then hit the flat part of the knuckle with a hammer, a few hard hits will make the tie rod pop.

    leave the lock nut on the shaft, turn it right to where its snug to the old tie rod, then unscrew the tie rod, turn the new one back on to the lock nut. ( do not take the old lock nut off, re use it) put the rod end back in the knuckle, then tighten both nuts.

    then go for an alignment cause you'll need one.

    the inner's you push and pull the inner rod, if it moves replace it. it should be tight.

    lca's are cheap and rather easy to change, do all this at the same time then get it aligned.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    Hell, if I'm shooting to only do one alignment - should I be thinking about doing front quick-struts as well?

    I assume I'd need an alignment after doing struts and mine have to be getting worn at 95k, right?
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  5. #5 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if your gonna change all that stuff its best to do it all, then get it aligned. why pay 2 times at the shop right?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    Yea, exactly. I'm not sure I can handle this all in 1 weekend since it's my first go round for all of these replacements. Would I be fine for a week or two not having an alignment if I do the tie-rods and lower control arms one weekend and struts the next?

    I haven't even thought about what is worn in the rear end suspension yet.
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  7. #7 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you can get all that done in a afternoon easy. struts are 5 bolts and out. lca's are 3 bolts. tie rods are 2 nuts, all very easy to swap.

    just do one side at a time, one jack is all you need. i'd do the tie rod first, then the lca, then the strut. this way the strut holds the knuckle up while you do the lca.

    and the other side is always faster then the first side cause you now know what to expect.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    Ok I'm not on any drugs but I can't find a front quick-strut assembly for an 08 on rockauto. Do fronts not come as a spring/shock assembly like the rears?

    I was told do the whole assembly so I don't have to use the spring compression tool. What am I missing here?

    Thanks Scotty!
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  9. #9 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    there should be a full strut out there for you. i agree why go through building them your self.

    but then again, a shop could rebuild them for around 30 bucks for the pair im sure, if you took all the parts to them and had them put it all together.

    i did that when i changed my strut mounts. took em off the car, dropped them off, hour later i picked them up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  10. #10 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    Can you recommend another website or two like rockauto since they must be out of stock?
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  11. #11 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    autogeek is good as well. then theres advance auto. buy on line, enter a discount code save money, then pick up at your local store.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    Scotty,

    I finally called O'reilly and it seems they do not offer a quick-strut assembly for the front. Also I've checked numerous sites and none offer the full pre-loaded assembly.

    So it looks like I'm stuck renting a spring compressor and going that route. How big of a pain is that aside from being dangerous?!
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  13. #13 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    you need air tools really. the danger factor and lack of air tools is why i just dropped my stuff off at the front end shop local to me.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #14 Re: Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement 
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    you may want a big dead blow hammer if anything get stuck. also to dont forget lube the zerk fittings.
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