Thread: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs

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  1. #1 Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    '99 - 3800 engine

    I need to remove the broken studs at the rear of the manifold crossover pipe (where it connects to the exhaust).

    See pic.

    I believe these are studs with double nuts and they do not thread into the lower flange. Can anyone confirm? I know the nuts are frozen tight, but can you also confirm that the lower nut is not welded to the lower (exhaust pipe) flange? If this is true, I should be able to just punch these babies through. Just want to be sure before I start banging away.

    Thanks
    Last edited by jammy; 07-10-2017 at 11:41 PM.
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  2. #2 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    might be best to drill and install new nuts and bolts there.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    Aha! OK, will try.
    BTW, on my other thread, got the coolant temp sensor replaced (my 2nd one, 18 years but only 95K miles) and everything is fine.

    Thanks
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  4. #4 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    How did you get them out? I ended up busting both of mine.
    2000 GTP, CAI, ZZP front P-Log, ZZP 3" downpipe, 3.4" Thrasher SC pulley, Overkill PCM, 180 thermostat, BMR front & rear STB, 41-993 AC Delco Iridium plugs, ZZP rear sway bar (red, 18.3 mm), Moog rear poly sway bar bushings, Moog LCA's w/ problem solver front bushings, ZZP ceramic coated exhaust crossover, ZZP poly motor mounts
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  5. #5 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    Ok. those nuts are welded to the backside of that lower flange. You can drill them out.
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  6. #6 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    wushock2000: DON'T try to hammer, vice-grip, or twist the lower half of those broken studs. You will never get them out by force, and will only make matters worse. Billybooost37 is absolutely correct; the lower nuts are welded on the back of the lower flange.

    I learned the hard way - I was able to drill out one of the studs because it broke right at the surface of the flange. But the other one broke off with 1" of stud above the flange and I couldn't get a drill to stay on it. So, I banged on it and ended up busting the lower flange right off the pipe. Luckily, it was a clean break and I found an good welder who was able to wire-weld it back for me by inserting a short collar inside the pipe.

    Suggestion: First use a cutoff wheel to cut the broken studs flush with the flange. Buy a 12" long 3/8" bit to drill out the studs. Replace studs with Grade 8.8 M8 or 3/8" bolts. Place bolt heads down, threaded ends facing up. Make sure the bolts are long enough to accommodate both flanges, the donut gasket and the heat shield.

    Good luck!!
    Last edited by jammy; 08-04-2017 at 10:25 PM.
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  7. #7 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    another idea is to hit a jy and try to get a rear manifold w/o the broken studs.
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  8. #8 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    Thanks for the suggestions. Any tips on drilling out the studs? I've got them cut flush with the flange but drilling has been very slow progress. Using titanium coated bits (made in china) & a 3/8 cobalt bit (made in Germany). At this point I'm contemplating buying a new ZZP rear PLOG.
    2000 GTP, CAI, ZZP front P-Log, ZZP 3" downpipe, 3.4" Thrasher SC pulley, Overkill PCM, 180 thermostat, BMR front & rear STB, 41-993 AC Delco Iridium plugs, ZZP rear sway bar (red, 18.3 mm), Moog rear poly sway bar bushings, Moog LCA's w/ problem solver front bushings, ZZP ceramic coated exhaust crossover, ZZP poly motor mounts
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  9. #9 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if you got a center punch punch the stud first, use a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole, then use a larger one to finish it off. you need a sharp metal bit, firm pressure and go slow, fast dont work, just smokes the bit and kills it. spray some wd-40 on the bit and the flange as you work.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  10. #10 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    cool, thanks man! I'll give it a go.
    2000 GTP, CAI, ZZP front P-Log, ZZP 3" downpipe, 3.4" Thrasher SC pulley, Overkill PCM, 180 thermostat, BMR front & rear STB, 41-993 AC Delco Iridium plugs, ZZP rear sway bar (red, 18.3 mm), Moog rear poly sway bar bushings, Moog LCA's w/ problem solver front bushings, ZZP ceramic coated exhaust crossover, ZZP poly motor mounts
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  11. #11 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    dont try to rush it at all. just take your time, cause you'll need them bits to do the other stud. when i say slow i mean real slow, you'll see it shaving the metal off pretty fast, just need to keep at it nice and slow.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    dont try to rush it at all. just take your time, cause you'll need them bits to do the other stud. when i say slow i mean real slow, you'll see it shaving the metal off pretty fast, just need to keep at it nice and slow.
    As usual, Scottydoggs is absolutely right! I used a 12" x 3/8" black oxide metal drilling bit and dipped it in motor oil from time to time to lubricate and cool it. I also took off the throttle body for better access for drilling; removal and remount is relatively easy.
    Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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  13. #13 Re: Removing broken manifold crossover pipe studs 
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    Just got it bolted back together & leak free. Thanks for the tips as I couldn't have done it without. My throttle body was pretty dirty so it & the MAF got all cleaned up. I'll post any reduction in IAT when I get around to scanning it. Thanks again!
    2000 GTP, CAI, ZZP front P-Log, ZZP 3" downpipe, 3.4" Thrasher SC pulley, Overkill PCM, 180 thermostat, BMR front & rear STB, 41-993 AC Delco Iridium plugs, ZZP rear sway bar (red, 18.3 mm), Moog rear poly sway bar bushings, Moog LCA's w/ problem solver front bushings, ZZP ceramic coated exhaust crossover, ZZP poly motor mounts
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