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we can see its shifted for sure. sit on it and hop up and down, on the down hop try to turn the key in the trunk lock. keep it turned once it turns or it might lock again on ya before you get off the lid.
I'll be danged. I was wrong about seam sealer also. Theres probably sealer under the hinge or something. Been probably nearly ten years since I fixed a rear crash on one, so shoot me. I'm fading, thats one reason why I don't post much. Had enough snap to go look again though!
Here. I think this will get you closer.
Firmly bump the other end of that 2x4 with a sledge hammer (don't swing it just thump it, sneak up on the correct amount). Less than a 3 lb hammer prolly won't move it but maybe a pry bar or wrench? Hitting it will help it move down, bending with tool won't. Its a funky shaped striker but theres really no adjustment built in so you gotta bump it. I remember now. The rubber overslam bumper is lightly spring-loaded, just push that down.
Hope this helps
My words were not clear so I went to my car for a pic. This is the striker. It controls the position of the rear of the deck lid-
One bolt is visible here, the others are behind the bumper. Car doesn't have a sill plate, just the trunk carpet so woops. Pull the weatherstrip back a ways and work the carpet over the striker if you want to see it. Your new lid looks barely off side-to-side, so thats the part where I suggest a 2x4 block against the striker then thumping the wood with a hammer. Or hitting the striker directly. Its probably sitting where it should be but just bent a little.
It is possible that the rubber screw in type bumpers on the lid are holding it up. If so, screw them in until it sits level. That should set the height unless the striker has moved upwards.
Is it hard to close? I'll check back after dark. Good luck.
once the trunk is open you'll see the extent of the damage. if your lucky its all the trunk lid and hinges and the body stayed straight.
for it to be totaled id be thinking it would need a quarter panel or both at least.
Oh and when you're inside the trunk you can loosen the latch bolts as well as the hinge bolts. So everything can settle into the spot it needs to be in.
It doesn't matter. This is all a negotiation. You tell them "You value my car at $3,000 and you show salvage value is $500. Write me a check for $2,500 and I will sign a release". You never give them your title. It is impossible for them to give it a salvage title if you never sign it over. The insurance company will always tell you what they want you to do and guide you that direction. You have to stand up for yourself. Been there done that several times.
id take it to the shop for a new est. then submit it. dont look to bad really.
see that screw/bolt looking thing in the hinge. pretty sure thats an adjustment right there. you might be able to lower the lid on the one side with it.
We just decided to say f*ck the insurance and they'll pay me back the costs of the junk yard parts and the tail lights I buy. And if I need to get it painted her mom knows a guy that works at a shop but will give her a deal.
I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow morning. Do I need to get the things that hold the trunk up or just new brackets?
Also, is the old latch messed up or is the metal thing it latches to bent?
the hoop might be bent ( no pic of it) or the locks adjuster got pulled down if you open the trunk and look behind the key/lock you'll see whats going on better.
if the trunk stays up the lifts are still good, at the ends is a sleeve. use a pic to pop it free and the lift comes off its little boll joint there.
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