Thread: Transmission oil flush?

If the color is a bright red, and not cloudy or dark, it won't hurt.

Have you had any issues with it shifting hard, hesitating, or taking a while to move after going from park or reverse into drive?

I wouldn't get a "flush" but a fluid exchange is fine.

Older style flush machines a known to kill transmissions because they push fluid through the transmission and could dislodge clutch build up and plug the valve body or other fluid flowing area's. The newer fluid exchange machines use the transmissions OWN oil pump to pump new fluid in and while sending old fluid out. They hook up the same way in both applications, just exchange machine will suck the new fluid in through the hose and push the old fluid out other return line of the cooler into a waste oil bin.

Your other option is just suck the fluid out the dipstick tube and replace what you took out or drop the transmission pan and refill when you are done.

Personally, dropping the pan is the best option IMO because you can get a good idea of how your transmission is doing just by looking at the magnet in the bottom of the pan.

If you take it to a shop, make sure it's a reputable shop. Chain shops like pep boys or NAPA do terrible quality work, and charge you for things that they don't actually do, or just mess things up and give no explanation or reason.

Try to find a locally owned shop that gets a lot of repeat customers, or take a few minutes to read through some threads on here and follow the little tips and tricks you find. It also helps to have the right tools, find a friend with experience working on cars to help you.

Ted. If you're going to do the Flush, might was well go through the slight trouble of changing the transmission fluid filter, and o-ring, and maybe even thrown in a Trans-Go shift kit. Dropping that trans-pan can be a mess. Make sure you have the proper catch pan for all the fluid, plenty of rags. Shift kit + filter + fluid = $100.00.

Link to Write Up:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ailed-Pictures

You won't need a new gasket if you do a pan drop.

The factory gasket is a metal and can be re-used without issue, just clean it up of course.

Make sure to take a good look at the magnet, if the magnet is easy to see and had distinct ridges on the top, it's doing just fine. If it is a massive lump of black, and there is no clear shape to the magnet, you might want to look at the fluid more closely, try to find anything that looks like metal shavings. If you don't find any, that's a good sign.

Might also want to take the time to put a shift kit in, 40 bucks on Amazon, it will help keep the transmission running longer, and prevent future problems.

It's really quite simple, follow this link: http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ailed-Pictures

You will notice a big difference in the shifts after the kit, and the extra springs and spacers will actually save your trans from more wear by decreasing the time it takes to complete a shift, and allowing the clutch packs to slip much less than stock, preventing them from wearing down or overheating.

A large flat tote is useful to catch all of the trans fluid, less cleanup afterwards.

If you do the shift kit, grab a scotch brite pad. Not necessarily needed, but recommended.

Lastly, use the right fluid. AcDelco Dextron III or Dextron VI is the best, but usually the most expensive, it's what the factory fluid is. Most brands will work, as long as it is a Dextron III or Dextron VI specific fluid.



Oh, and be careful when pulling the filter out, try not to break the tube off inside the trans. If it happens, vise grips work. The seal will be a royal b1tch to get out, but be gentle with it. If you scratch the inside surface of where the seal fits into, it won't seal properly. And you can re use the factory ribbed steel and rubber gasket, just check for cracks or splits on both sides.

I think that's it. Good luck.




Edit: yes I know I type slow...

Originally Posted by McFLY 1990

I will probably just change the oil without a FLUSH

After you button everything up, dump a couple gallons of fluid back in. Disconnect the return line from the cooler. Run engine until you see the "new" fluid come out of the return line. Reconnect the line. Top off the fluid.

You have now pumped out all the old, and have 100% new fluid in its place.