Overheating

[Aschad89]

Alright guys so heres the deal. This week i bought an 03 gt. Decided to do a a tstat and engine temp sensor bc i had what seems to be an infamous P0128 code. Prior to the change i had no problem with overheating or anything but decided to prevent it. Well since the change, while sitting at idle, the car gets hot. It wont redline but will run close to it. I flushed the system and put new fluids in it as well think that might be the reason and still no luck. Im going to try and make sure there is no air in the system tomoro. I was wondering if anyone else had this issue before and if sk how did u fix it?

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[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

You have air in the system, common issue when you don't bleed it right.

Easy way to do it is just remove the thermostat again and fill the lower intake manifold with coolant all the way to the top with the engine cold, re-install the thermostat and then top off the radiator. Run the car with the cap off and let it burp and top off as needed, then go for a drive. Doing it this way means you really never have to even open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.

It's how I did it when I worked in a shop.

[Aschad89]

Thx ill do that instead it defi itely sounds like a much easier way to take care of things

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[steelholder]

I mean no offense with this question but how would this be simpler than just opening the bleed screw,? Isnt doing that easy enough or does this releive air more effeciently?

[Scottydoggs]

i used a drilled t stat last time round, no bleeding needed at all. topped it off the next few mornings and it was fine, full to the rim still.

[SubwayGuy]

You have air in the system, common issue when you don't bleed it right.

Easy way to do it is just remove the thermostat again and fill the lower intake manifold with coolant all the way to the top with the engine cold, re-install the thermostat and then top off the radiator. Run the car with the cap off and let it burp and top off as needed, then go for a drive. Doing it this way means you really never have to even open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.

It's how I did it when I worked in a shop.

That's more work than is needed. All I did was fill the overflow way up and open the bleeder. Super simple and only needed a 7mm wrench.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Say you did have a bunch of air trapped under the thermostat and in the LIM, it would take a long time for the air to cycle out of the engine through the bleed screw.

Making sure the coolant is filled to the highest point first goes along way in making sure nothing is trapped. The rest of the small pockets of air if there are any will just bubble out the radiator when you have the cap off.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

That's more work than is needed. All I did was fill the overflow way up and open the bleeder. Super simple and only needed a 7mm wrench.

As if removing two 10mm bolts takes alot of time and I like to have no mess. I'd rather not have coolant spilling/spraying out onto the exhaust and pooling in the LIM slots.

[SubwayGuy]

As if removing two 10mm bolts takes alot of time and I like to have no mess. I'd rather not have coolant spilling/spraying out onto the exhaust and pooling in the LIM slots.

You will still have to end up bleeding the system anyway. Even if you put it all in through the LIM, there will still be some trapped air in the bottom.

Sure it won't be as much coolant, but when I bled it, nothing even burned off. It just dribbled off.

[Scottydoggs]

You will still have to end up bleeding the system anyway. Even if you put it all in through the LIM, there will still be some trapped air in the bottom.

oh JR.........facepalm city.

[nik12937]

I can't even remember the last time I touch my bleeder screw, filling the system the way Scotty mentioned has never steered my wrong.

[SubwayGuy]

oh JR.........facepalm city.

You're telling me that if you did it that way, you wouldn't feel the need to bleed it?

[Scottydoggs]

air rises , liquid sinks. theres nothing trapped if you fill the engine up from the t stat.

[Aschad89]

Im going to try andget the air out of the system however i almost want to think it is the tstat i got from autozoneas well. I wa t to think its not opening all the way as it should.... Right now im sitting at idle it rose to 235 and then dropped down to just above 210.... Ill still bleed the system of air the way scotty mentioned as it def seems like the quickest and easiest way to do so and ill update you guys on it

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[Scottydoggs]

you using the temp needle to get these #'s? or a scanner like the t app or something. the dash gauge is not accurate really.

[Aschad89]

The needle those are just the fluctuations i get

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[Aschad89]

As in my temp gauge

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[Scottydoggs]

for starters the fans dont come on till 212º t stat is a 195 is my guess. what stock is. it opens at 195, once cold coolant hits it, it shuts, and of course the temp will drop. and then rise back to 195, then open, does this all day long.

in the end you end up running well over 200-210 ish if parked or local driving. hwy will be lower due to the wind in the rad cooling it better.

and the same 212 degrees on the dash gauge looks like its overheating, its like what 3 lines form red? i drive a regal, i only know this from pics posted.

[Aschad89]

The gauge reads all the way to 260 so im assuming each big line is 25 degree increments. Based on that 235 is the large line closest to the red which is where it stops. The stock tstat is 195 as well as the new one i put in (obviously) still even at idle the car shouldnt reach that close the red line i wouldnt think. When driving normal the temp runs just a tad over 210 which as u said is roughly normal however even at idle the tstat should be open at 210 and it shouldnt be heating up to nearly redline should it?

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[Scottydoggs]

all gp's run up near the red is my point, its a crappy gauge. google the site, theres a load of threads asking if they are over heating, and in fact they are not. it just looks like its retarded hot.