Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
Boom
with struts and subframe intact AND inside the garage
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psctjahfzr.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...pswnfrezuw.jpg
then make a nice little home for it with some wood , basically a pallet that can fit in the hoist
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psh5d9ptni.jpg
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
But yea follow instructions if you don't know what you're doing :th_bike-fall:
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
Somebody likes Harbor Freight :)
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
mines a HF hoist too. i had to drill a new hole in the top arm so it would sit centered over the engine, or the jack was on the bumper.
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
Love that place, well for a casual wrencher
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
Based on my pics did I disconnect everything in step 4 that's abb from link on page 5
Swaping engine and trans from top (first timer)
Want to make sure I'm ready to move on to the passenger part
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
keep plucking away, your getting there.
Re: Anyone ever bought an engine from a salvage/wrecking yard?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
REDCRAPGP
Somebody likes Harbor Freight :)
Yessir. The press, hoist and stand were perfect for they amount of use they get. Very causal
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Ran into a major pita today. I really thought i would get ahead but i encountered a wasted rounded tire lug nut that was a sob to remove, that literally took about an hr and half to get out. I also had a weird situation when attempting to remove the axle nut, it just kept rotating, I could've sworn it locked in place before and did not rotate once wheel was off (maybe its the busted tranny?). So I put wheel back, set car back down on ground to remove axle nut, this is when my 1/2 drive wrench snapped.
Here are my questions
1. Is there a more efficient type of crow bar type tool with a 1/2 in drive that i can attach a sockett to remove axle nut, something with lots of leverage?
2. Im on step 9 but im not sure everything translates exactly to my 07 gp (it very well may). The whole point of this step is just to remove axles from tranny right and then put everything back without the axles?
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
you need a 1/2 drive long breaker bar, and a pipe for the end of it.
pretty sure if you pop the ball joint then pop the axle out of the tranny you can just lay it there.
you can also have someone stand on the brakes to hold the nut from turning, or drop a screw driver in the fins of the rotor and let it hit the caliper bracket to hold it. spare tire also works, its got the nut in the wide open. but the wheel needs to be on the ground.
both wheels off the ground and the wheels spin free, aka the axle nut too.
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Did I miss something ? Is the trans coming out too?
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Scottydoggs
you need a 1/2 drive long breaker bar, and a pipe for the end of it.
pretty sure if you pop the ball joint then pop the axle out of the tranny you can just lay it there.
you can also have someone stand on the brakes to hold the nut from turning, or drop a screw driver in the fins of the rotor and let it hit the caliper bracket to hold it. spare tire also works, its got the nut in the wide open. but the wheel needs to be on the ground.
both wheels off the ground and the wheels spin free, aka the axle nut too.
exactly what i needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CrazyGuy03
Did I miss something ? Is the trans coming out too?
yeah it was briefly mentioned
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
A couple of questions, Im a bit stuck in the process right before unscrewing the axle nut.
1.step 10 says remove cotter pin from ball joints, as in plural, there is just ONE ball joint with one castle nut per tire that needs to be removed right? I took off the pin and unscrewed nut from ball joint located directly behind rotor at about 6 oclock but noticed it couldnt unscrew all the way because it makes contact with the axle it impedes it from being removed.
2. i cant locate my sway bar(i know thats pathetic and its right in front of me so im being honest i want to get it removed to get to the axle part already)
I included a suspension diagram in hopes someone can point me to exactly what i have to remove to move forward
http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/sho...ey_model=15778
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
#27
take endlinks off both ends (bolt will more than likely break so replace with blue moog end links)
2 bolts on the subframe both sides to remove sway bar
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Ok i got those sway link bolts off.
any ideas to the first question? Im pretty sure thats the right joint since its the only one with a cotter pin that i can see. I uust cant get that nut off
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
you got it, back the nut off as far as it goes, then take your jack handle, the long pipe off the jack, slide it under the frame and then lay it a top the lca. now add some weight on the bar, whack the ball joint aka the lca point with a hammer, the ball joint will pop out after a hit or two.
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Ok when i have the bar over the lca do i hit the lca in a downwards motion im not even sure where or what to hit
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
Scratch that i got the first one off driver side is wayy tougher
Re: Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)
it just needs to be hit, the hammer impact is what shocks the ball joint free from the knuckle....on to the next step.