i dont think that was it. I got a new code p0171 the dp is still cracked, those are good to tighten now right? ill try to get the fuel pressure gauge by the end of the day its been busy one today havent had any time for the gp.
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i dont think that was it. I got a new code p0171 the dp is still cracked, those are good to tighten now right? ill try to get the fuel pressure gauge by the end of the day its been busy one today havent had any time for the gp.
that code is from running the dp cracked open. being we know the fuel is lacking, yes, bolt the dp back up tight.
Don't know if it's relevant but the radiator hoses were sucked up like pulling on a straw with your finger at one end.
Air in the cooling system and a bad radiator cap can do that.
Ok guys I rented the fuel pressure kit what am I looking for? I'm assuming pressure should drop down as engine begins to sputter and die right? Would pressure stay constant in a vehicle with no fuel pump problems even when it turns off?
screw it on the rail and see what it says, key on what it read? running what it read, and what does it do when it stalls out. report back its reading.
less then 32 psi is a bad pump.
I feel like im doing something wrong here but the gauge never moved, not when it was initially plugged in or when key was turned or car was started, nothing. Could i have a faulty kit?
you got it screwed on the rail port all the way down? rental tools, never know, could be broken. you should be able to test it on what ever car your driving to the store, test it in the lot, or try the other car before returning this one.
im not sure about it screwed all the way down but def very tight and enough to release gas when its removed. I couldnt find the schrader valve on my old ford truck probably doesnt even have one. Ill be able to try it on a different car in an hr or so to confirm the kit works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
carb cars dont have the port. just fuel injected cars. sounds like the gauge is bad. they should have another.
Ok here are the numbers 52 when turning the key then 59 during running and when it stalled it jerked from 59 to 52 again
damn, wtf is going on there. try unplugging the maf sensor. car off key off, unplug it, then start it up. if it runs longer even if you need to pedal it to keep it running the maf could be bad.
Tow truck guy heard it run and sputter and also mentioned it sounded like a maf issue ill try that nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
Same deal. Stays on if I give gas but it also did the same with sensor plugged in.
im at a lose here. sorry.
all i can think of is making sure everything is plugged in on the engine and all vac lines are solid.
oh man..thats hard to hear Scotty. How many vac lines are there to check? I bought that little elbow for the hole that was open and connected that line to it correspondent.
next to the brake booster hose is a small line, make sure thats on, then i think thats it really, for your year, the evap line can leak too.
try spraying some carb cleaner around the engine while its running, the idle with jump up if it hits a leak. if you have brake cleaner it makes the engine bog.
Do you recommend cleaning the maf sensor with dust off?
maf cleaner only. dont think its the issue tho, cause its the same unplugged.
you fire it up more then once maf unplugged right? same deal each time?
Yeah I just tried a few times, are these the symptoms of a vac leak? Seems scary to me.