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  1. #1 stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    So are the pads on either side identical? Except for the wear bar indicator? Reason is because I didn't realize that I used 2 of the same pads (two lefts for an example) until I went to do the other side and both pads had the wear bar indicator on them /facepalm

    Do I need to take it all off and swap the pads?
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  2. #2 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    your fine, you'll just have double squealers on one side, and none on the other.

    ive taken them off too. all 4 pads are the same, no inside or outside pad.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Just what I wanted to hear. I figured it was okay cause other cars where they are different, they are very noticeable. Since I didn't see a difference I thought it may be OK.

    But man I needed brakes! Not only were the tell tale signs of the vibrating pedal and steering but one pad on each side was not even attached! The thickest pad out of all 4 might have been 3/16" thick!!

    Also, with the rotor off I found a sliced wire for my wheel sensor. No more abs and trac lights on ! Bonus!
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  4. #4 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    nice find.

    you took them pads for every last mile huh? lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    nice find.

    you took them pads for every last mile huh? lol
    The one pad that had the wear indicator on it was worn uneven so it never even touched. Thought about putting them back on and maybe get another 1000 miles with em......./sarcasm lol
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  6. #6 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    I mean it's only 1 caliper bolt to swap them out, take it out and flip it and slide the pad out.

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  7. #7 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    I mean it's only 1 caliper bolt to swap them out, take it out and flip it and slide the pad out.

    true, but if they are the same then why bother? lol. honestly the driver side (that where the ones with the indicators are on) was the worst anyways lol
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  8. #8 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i sure hope you greased the slider pins real good. when one pad burns up and the other has lots of meat left thats never good.

    if it was worn on a slant your hub could also be blown to crap too. id check for play in the wheel jacked up lugs tight.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    i sure hope you greased the slider pins real good. when one pad burns up and the other has lots of meat left thats never good.

    if it was worn on a slant your hub could also be blown to crap too. id check for play in the wheel jacked up lugs tight.
    I usually check for various things while having the car up and wheel off. Once i snug the bolts up on the tire and its still in the air i check for wheel bearing play. The uneven wear isnt that bad, I think it may have something to do with how low the other side was.
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  10. #10 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    nope, if its worn on a angle the hub is bad or the caliper is bent, or the rotor is truly f ed up.

    the pad that wore to nothing was the inside pad?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    nope, if its worn on a angle the hub is bad or the caliper is bent, or the rotor is truly f ed up.

    the pad that wore to nothing was the inside pad?
    yes i believe it was the inside pad that wore to nothing. I did have one heck of a pedal vibration under heavy braking...
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  12. #12 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    did you have the rotors cut? or replace them? or just a pad swap?

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  13. #13 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    SE Level Member blackthunder's Avatar
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    Pads and Rotors

    I normally replace the rotors and pads together.
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  14. #14 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    keep a eye on the rotors wear, if you see the tops are being worn but the inside is not somethings up.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  15. #15 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Should be alright, slides get dirty and stop the pads from going back and it happens alot.

    Cleaned up and new rotors and pads with hardware and it will good.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  16. #16 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    GTX Level Member industrialfish's Avatar
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    Wear sensors should go on the inside pad btw, but the pads are the same either way.
    2005 GTP - Graystone Metallic|SPO grills&spoiler/SE lip/Carbon Fiber INFERNO hood
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  17. #17 Re: stupid me :-/ 
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    Quote Originally Posted by industrialfish View Post
    Wear sensors should go on the inside pad btw, but the pads are the same either way.
    really? the ones I took off on two factory cares had them outside
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  18. #18 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    GTX Level Member industrialfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logan541 View Post
    really? the ones I took off on two factory cares had them outside
    Then they were both wrong. More specifically, the wear sensor should be on the inside pad, at the leading edge (bottom).

    If you wear out your outside pads completely with no indicator on them, you get a hot rotor and ****ty braking but isn't likely to destroy anything. If you wear out your inside pad with no indicator to tell you that is happening, you can damage the piston much more easily, possibly causing you to dump all your fluid and lose all braking, or seize up and lose control etc.

    So you want to know when your inside pad is getting low a lot sooner.
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  19. #19 Re: stupid me :-/ 
    GTX Level Member industrialfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by industrialfish View Post
    More specifically, the wear sensor should be on the inside pad, at the leading edge (bottom)
    Er, I have no idea why I said (bottom). It's top for us. Leading edge is top for a front facing caliper.
    2005 GTP - Graystone Metallic|SPO grills&spoiler/SE lip/Carbon Fiber INFERNO hood
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  20. #20 Re: stupid me :-/ 
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    The Adaptive One pads I bought do have and inside and outside pad. I don't think most pads are this way though. Also, the pads rattle a lot and the backing plate is coming loose so I'm thinking about returning them.
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