The connecting bar isn't in the center like the stock ones. Is the bar closer to the wheel or not? Will it be clear when I go to install them, or does it not matter anyway?
IMG_20140421_094356_885.jpg
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The connecting bar isn't in the center like the stock ones. Is the bar closer to the wheel or not? Will it be clear when I go to install them, or does it not matter anyway?
IMG_20140421_094356_885.jpg
I'd just assume that there must be a left and right printed on them, but maybe not.
I'd say you want the bar further from the tire so it doesnt rub. So with the picture you have, the front one is the left side and the other is the right side but you need to flip it over.
There isn't a left/right, both are the same part number. Makes sense to put the bar away from the tire.
Yup put them away from tire.. Worse case you'll swap then around if needed but I'm sure once you get them in place you'll figure out if they're on correctly or not.
*facepalm* I put the bar closer to the wheel when I put mine on, and I have no clue as to why. It is for tire clearance a lewis mentioned. I'm about to replace my rear brake lines so I guess I'll flip them now in case I ever run wider tires or whatever.
Quick question to anyone who's installed or replaced trailing arms, I know like most suspension parts you're supposed to torque them while the suspension is loaded. How did you guys go about that? I use low-profile hydraulic jacks and jack stands, and with my garage/basement floor being a bit uneven, I'm kind of uneasy jacking up the bottom of the arm to load it.
Drive the car on ramps or stacked wood. Peek head under tighten done.
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The damn ramps I got at a yard sale are too steep, I'll have to cut up some wood leading up to them to clear the rear bumper. Can't complain though, got them for $10 and they're still rust free.
That's the route I'll go though, thanks for the tip!
Carefull with the wood, I did that then when the car decided to slam into reverse it shot 1 of the ramps out and my GP was flexing like a rock crawler.
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Me? Says the guy bringing back a 5 month old thread :P
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Only issues is you have to take off the body side brackets, and those bolts like to break. Also the knuckle side nut is like 200 lbs of torque and the bolt was seized into the knuckle. I needed a blow torch and a sledgehammer for it.Originally Posted by SpeedGrid
No but, you know me well enough right? I have good intentions.
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