Time to replace everything

**tachasmo** · 02-11-2014

Hey guys. I've had my 05 Comp G for a year and a have now and have put nearly 40k miles on it since then. I'm getting around 170,000 and the suspension needs upgraded. I have a pretty good tax refund coming (since I can write off all my mileage for work

) and I want to upgrade my whole suspension. I don't need performance parts since it's my daily driver, but I need something that is going to last 25k miles a year. I would like to pretty much upgrade everything and get it all done at once so I don't have to worry about replacing something else a few months down the road. My ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control lights are on because of the front left wheel so I'm going to replace the hub while I'm at it. If you guys could help me out and basically give me a list of things I should get and good brands I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

**spazzz** · 02-12-2014

Well for starters, are you doing the work?
The AC delco FE3 factory struts for your car are about $110 each....just for struts.
Monroe mounts another $100+.

You could get KYB GR2 struts for closer to $250 for all 4. Monroe mounts $100+
You should be able to reuse your rubber isolators and springs unless they are beat.

You could get whatever quick struts(AC/Delco from rockauto $145 each) for the back but they don't make them for the front.

Then you have Moog sway bar end links another $100.
------------------ ---------------------

So KYB GR2s --part# 339089 x2 & #334228 x2
Monroe mounts -- part# 902968 x2 & #902969 x2
Moog sway bar end links -- part# K80852 x2 & #K6662 x2

If you do it yourself those parts will be around $500. (more if you want the factory AC/Delcos/FE3s)
and then you have the lower control arms 110 each and.....

**CyxRyan** · 02-12-2014

If you plan on doing it yourself then I would go to rockauto and choose between Monroe, KYB, or ACDelco. They seem to have the lowest price compared to auto parts store's around my area. You can get the complete assembly for the rear's but for some odd reason the front's dont... For the front you could keep your old springs or get new and buy the strut and strut mount then go to your local auto parts store and rent a spring compressor. Plenty of video's on youtube to give you an idea what the compressor is and how to use it "easy".

Now on to your hub,... I would first check to see if the plug/wire's have corrosion on them and clean them off to see if that will fix your problem. That happen to me on one hub but the other one I had to replace so try it before you replace it. Also check your stabilizer bar bushing which are on your sway bar to see if that has any play.

Hope this helps out a little! =D

**sseilmnop** · 02-12-2014

If your going to keep the car, do the inner and outer tie rod ends, lower control arms sway bar end links all at the same time.

**tachasmo** · 02-12-2014

I do plan on doing the work and I am most likely going to keep the car until it dies because it's a nice car to drive back and forth to work. So how long should a job like this take? Keep in mind I do all the routine maintenance myself and have done quite a bit of work on it so far so I know my way around it pretty well. Thanks for the advice so far.

**RivMan** · 02-12-2014

I was in the same boat as you last year, here's a list of what I used with CompG Springs and rear sway bar (All from Rock Auto)

Excel-G 339015 Front Struts (06+ Style, FE4 Spec)
Excel-G 339148 Rear Struts (06+ Style, FE4 Spec)
Monroe Strut Mounts
Dorman Front Swaybar
06+ Style LCA's (Dorman)
New hubs at all 4 corners (Timkin)
New brakes (Brakemotive)

Also installed new inner and outer tie rods.

WELL worth the effort and $$$

-Rob

**spazzz** · 02-12-2014

OK that's with the swap over to eliminate the bastard 04-05 style sway.
What I don't get is the KYB FE4 spec?? thought only Bilsteins accomplished that. Did you mean FE2?

**RivMan** · 02-12-2014

The KYB's I used are spec'd for an Impala or Monte Carlo with the FE4 Special Handling Package. More details in this thread: http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...-with-KYB-tech

So far I'm VERY happy with this setup.

-Rob

**tachasmo** · 02-12-2014

How much did all of that cost and how long did it take to do?

**RivMan** · 02-12-2014

Parts were around $1100 total for everything. Just looked at my receipt and I forgot to mention that I also purchased new CV Shafts as well.

Took me about 5 hours working in my driveway to swap everything out.

-Rob

**tachasmo** · 02-12-2014

Originally Posted by RivMan

Parts were around $1100 total for everything. Just looked at my receipt and I forgot to mention that I also purchased new CV Shafts as well.

Took me about 5 hours working in my driveway to swap everything out.

-Rob

Your setup does sounds pretty good. Is there any way you can give me the part numbers for everything you bought. That would be really helpful and I would greatly appreciate it.

**sseilmnop** · 02-12-2014

New CV shafts? The new ones are cheap Chinese. I would not change OEM CV shafts unless I had to. I still have one original at 208,000 miles.

I bought a JK (Morad) when I replaced.

**Timing** · 02-12-2014

Originally Posted by sseilmnop

New CV shafts? The new ones are cheap Chinese. I would not change OEM CV shafts unless I had to. I still have one original at 208,000 miles.

I bought a JK (Morad) when I replaced.

This^ since swapping to the cheap a1 cv that every store sells ive returned and replaced each side twice in a year. Good thing they have a lifetime warantee but still ill eventually swap them for stocks or buy something better.

**sseilmnop** · 02-12-2014

The only better is stock. Zzp has a stage 3 or something which is a modified OEM but I don't think they are worth it.

**RivMan** · 02-13-2014

Originally Posted by tachasmo

Your setup does sounds pretty good. Is there any way you can give me the part numbers for everything you bought. That would be really helpful and I would greatly appreciate it.

Here's what I bought from RockAuto. The Tie rods are Moog from a local parts store.

No Vehicle Specified
KYB	339015	Strut	$ 60.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 121.58
KYB	339148	Strut	$ 68.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 137.58
2004 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 Supercharged
CARDONE SELECT	661255 (66-1255)	CV Half Shaft Assembly	$ 44.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 44.79
CARDONE SELECT	661256 (66-1256)	CV Half Shaft Assembly	$ 46.89	$ 0.00	1	$ 46.89
MONROE	902969	Strut Mount	$ 15.31	$ 0.00	1	$ 15.31
MONROE	902973	Strut Mount	$ 20.99	$ 0.00	2	$ 41.98
MONROE	902968	Strut Mount	$ 15.31	$ 0.00	1	$ 15.31
TIMKEN	HA590092	Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly	$ 81.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 163.58
TIMKEN	513179	Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly	$ 90.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 181.58
2006 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 Supercharged
DORMAN	520165 (520-165)	Control Arm	$ 37.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 37.79
DORMAN	927100 (927-100)	Stabilizer Bar Assembly	$ 78.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 78.79
DORMAN	520166 (520-166)	Control Arm	$ 37.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 37.79
Discount						$ -46.15
Shipping	Ground					$ 86.92
Order Total						$ 963.74

I've never had issues with the Cardone Select (New) shafts, but I've used the Cardone A1 (Reman) shafts, and wasn't happy with them.

-Rob

**sseilmnop** · 02-13-2014

You can save the old axles because you bought the new Chinese axles!

Don't loose them!

**tachasmo** · 02-13-2014

Originally Posted by RivMan

Here's what I bought from RockAuto. The Tie rods are Moog from a local parts store.

No Vehicle Specified
KYB	339015	Strut	$ 60.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 121.58
KYB	339148	Strut	$ 68.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 137.58
2004 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 Supercharged
CARDONE SELECT	661255 (66-1255)	CV Half Shaft Assembly	$ 44.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 44.79
CARDONE SELECT	661256 (66-1256)	CV Half Shaft Assembly	$ 46.89	$ 0.00	1	$ 46.89
MONROE	902969	Strut Mount	$ 15.31	$ 0.00	1	$ 15.31
MONROE	902973	Strut Mount	$ 20.99	$ 0.00	2	$ 41.98
MONROE	902968	Strut Mount	$ 15.31	$ 0.00	1	$ 15.31
TIMKEN	HA590092	Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly	$ 81.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 163.58
TIMKEN	513179	Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly	$ 90.79	$ 0.00	2	$ 181.58
2006 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 3.8L V6 Supercharged
DORMAN	520165 (520-165)	Control Arm	$ 37.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 37.79
DORMAN	927100 (927-100)	Stabilizer Bar Assembly	$ 78.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 78.79
DORMAN	520166 (520-166)	Control Arm	$ 37.79	$ 0.00	1	$ 37.79
Discount						$ -46.15
Shipping	Ground					$ 86.92
Order Total						$ 963.74

I've never had issues with the Cardone Select (New) shafts, but I've used the Cardone A1 (Reman) shafts, and wasn't happy with them.

-Rob

Did you buy new springs or did you re-use the ones on your vehicle?

**Slick2500** · 02-13-2014

I would have went with Moog lcas. I've heard the Dormans arent as good.

**RivMan** · 02-14-2014

I used CompG springs off of my wrecked donor car.

I've had great luck with the Cardone New CV's, and with a lifetime warranty, I'm not to worried about hanging onto some blown out stockers.

I ran the Dorman LCA's on my 99 Regal for ~100k miles with no issue at all. If these fail, I'll probably get Moog, but so far they're nice and solid.

-Rob

**Overkill** · 02-14-2014

I give a bunch of suspension tech pointers on my website http://www.getoverkilled.ca/wbodytech.html

I'd pick up the 06+ Impala police recall LCAs, they're nice and inexpensive for OEM quality stuff and they have the sway bar connection point. This will then allow you to pick up a GMPP or Dorman front sway bar upgrade, and give you lots of options on struts including KYB AGX which are my favorite or 97-03 Monroe Quick Strut assemblies (the 97-03 springs will lower your 04+ ride height 1/2", FYI).

If you do AGX struts and whatever springs, use the part numbers on my website to build new strut assemblies rather than breaking down your old struts to salvage a few small parts. You may just find that Canuk Motorsports springs are the best way to go for the price, even if you don't necessarily want lowering springs, and again I recommend 97-03 units because they have the corrected rear spring heights to fix sag, their 04+ or any other W-Body springs do not.

I believe you can get OEM outer tie rods from GM with no grease fittings, sealed factory install units, my preference over aftermarket.

Timken, Raybestos, Moog/National or SKF wheel bearings, I've used all with success. Main thing you must must do is ensure the axle nut is torqued to spec, not just hammered home with an impact or it will lead to premature bearing failure.