Caliper Torque Specs and Brakes

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

I am replacing the front brakes and rotors today, I have search the forum for the torque specs for my year which is a 2008 GP 3.8L but I can only find years from 2000-2004 and not sure if its the same specs or not. Is anybody able to give me the specs for the Caliper Bracket and Caliper bolt please, also do you recommend replacing the back ones to if they are not making any noise and I change them about 2 years ago, arent the back one only used when you are using the handbrake?

Thanks

**Travisgt2** · 03-19-2013

this may sound bad but i didnt torque mine to a sertine number i just tightened untill satisfied they were tight enough

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

I normally don't either as I change the brakes on these 2 years ago but I think I should start doing it, any suggestions anybody of that specs I should use. Thanks

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 03-19-2013

Our backs are roughly 70% front and 30% rear, so its takes normally alot longer for the rear pads to wear down.

Most will change brakes when they reach around 2-3mm of pads left, new pads are roughly 10-12mm depending on brand.

I tend to not torque those bolts because of I have seen them break off in the bracket when torque'd back to the GM specs, you are better off just going very snug and being on your way.

If you just changed the brakes 2 years ago, either you drive alot of city and do heavy braking or you bought the cheapest pads on the market.

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

K thanks, I know myself im a light braking but when you have your wife drive the car its a different story then LOL.

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

So If one wants to torque it what would it be?

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

Would anybody know if the slider pins for the calliper the one that has the rubber tip goes on the bottom of the calliper or the top? What is the rubber used for anyways? Is it used so the calliper can be rotate to the top or bottom so you can get access to the pads without removing the two sliders? Thanks

**dsmuts** · 03-19-2013

Just make them tight. It's never failed me.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-19-2013

i also just make them nice and tight. calipers i snug up good, caliper brackets i make good and tight. like tight. never had one back out. i used a small pipe on my ratchet for that extra leverage.

loosen up both sliders, then pull them out all the way, clean and re grease them with brake grease. then work them in and out of the caliper to work the grease in.

you will also want a C clamp to push the piston back in, i leave a old pad over the piston, then clamp it back in. the rears on your car, the piston turns back in.

**ibra0078** · 03-19-2013

I have done the brakes before in them but I can't remember if the slider that has the rubber tip goes on the bottom or top? I guess the top right so I can swing the calliper upwards if need to.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-19-2013

i know what rubber tip your talking about, not so sure it matters where it goes, i think i put mine in the top hole tho.

**smoke14** · 03-19-2013

Wait, I just did my front brakes last weekend and none of the slider pins had rubber tips. Brakes work fine.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-19-2013

http://www.grandprixforums.net/brake...pin-70315.html pic in the first thread

**ibra0078** · 03-20-2013

Thanks Scottydoggs, I thought it goes on the top to, and smoke14 your brakes would work fine if you dont have them I am pretty sure they are used for so when you want to replace your pads only you can remove the bottom slider and just slide the caliper upwards and this rubber tip will help it.

**ibra0078** · 03-21-2013

I received all the parts yesterday to do my brake job on the weekend, however what I realized was the brake pads inserts that clips on the calipers on top and bottom are bigger then what is on the car now. Does it matter? Should I replace them usually I do but these clips are huge? Thanks

**Ridin ON Chrome** · 03-22-2013

Front disc brakes
Bleeder valve, front caliper 115 in/lbs
Brake hose caliper bolt 40 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts 63 ft/lbs
Caliper bracket bolts (requires loctite) 137 ft/lbs

Rear disc brake
Bleeder valve 97 in/lbs
Brake hose bolt 32 ft/lbs
Caliper bracket bolt (requires loctite) 92 ft/lbs
Caliper bolt 32 ft/lbs

**ibra0078** · 03-26-2013

Thanks everybody for your help, I changed the front brakes and all is good.

**ibra0078** · 04-19-2013

Hi everybody quick question, it been about a month now and what I have been realizing is especially when backing up from either a spot or a driveway my brakes would squeak for few seconds until either I stop or drive in reverse. It sometimes happen when going forward but it definitely happens when reversing. I just change the brakes, put new sliders, boots, rotors and pads. Pads were top of the line that I got and I lube up everything, why in the hell it's still squeaking? I even change the pads clips that you install on the calliper bracket. Noise happens only on the driverside.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-19-2013

could be the pads your using.

or try some brake squeal stop. its a sticky spray on coating you spray on the pad backs, this holds the pads tight to the caliper piston, and the caliper, so they cant drag as long as the caliper is releasing.

**ibra0078** · 04-19-2013

Every time I do my brakes in any car I always lube up the pins, the pads and the tip of the pads. I guess I can remove the front pads and reapply some more lube.