Thread: Replacing LCA's... Best brand?

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  1. #1 Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    I am replacing my LCA's in the next week or 2, want some input on the best ones i can buy, i prefer to buy them from rockauto, so i'm basically wondering which pair they sell are the best?
    Also i was wondering if there is any difference between 2dr and 4dr LCA's?

    I need the ones with the ball joint already pressed in...
    heres the link to rock auto
    RockAuto Parts Catalog

    thanks for all replies.

    Spectre Open cone+SD hood+Limo rear, 20% front+tinted tails+pioneer 6x9's+pioneer deck= My toy
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  2. #2 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    All LCA's are the same for 2 door and 4 door.

    Most buy dorman and or Moog.

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  3. #3 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GTX Level Member Ridin ON Chrome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    All LCA's are the same for 2 door and 4 door.

    Most buy dorman and or Moog.
    x2

    You can get both dormans for almost the price of one moog
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  4. #4 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GTP Level Member buickman104's Avatar
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    I would go with raybestos professional grade. The ball joints are bolted not riveted on so they are easy to change in a few years when ball joints need changing.
    2000 Bronze Metallic GTP
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  5. #5 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    I think I'm going to go with the moogs, they seem to be better quality. Does anyone know if they have cert fittings on the ball joints so I can grease them down the road?
    I would go with the raybestos pro grade but they don't have any drivers side in stock and I needed to do this when the car was purchased 4 months ago. Plus from what I understand, usually the ball joint and bushing go around the same time... so I'll end up just buying new arms again in another 100,000 miles. That isn't too bad since I have done the ball joints on my xterra 3 times in the past year because the angle my lca's are at with the lift I have eats them up pretty quick, plus it has 31's on it.
    Thanks for the input

    Spectre Open cone+SD hood+Limo rear, 20% front+tinted tails+pioneer 6x9's+pioneer deck= My toy
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  6. #6 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GrandPrix Junkie The Guz's Avatar
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    I believe they do.
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  7. #7 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    I bought the cheapest ones rockauto had $102 shipped to my door.
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
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  8. #8 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GTX Level Member Elite6's Avatar
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    I went with ZZP ones because I needed shipping fast. Don't even know what brand they sell? lol Better be good for $100 each.
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  9. #9 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    they'll probably be dorman.
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  10. #10 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt5112 View Post
    they'll probably be dorman.
    Well then I can feel good about helping out the Michigan Economy I guess because they were $45 each from Rock auto.
    I always seem to be in a rush for parts with this car...
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  11. #11  
    GrandPrix Junkie Sandman's Avatar
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    Also before you order them from Rock Auto, for whatever reason the ones from a Regal are a little cheaper but they're the same thing. I got Moog for a Regal IIRC and sas like $100 shipped and they do have grease fittings.
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  12. #12  
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    Nah they are each 47. 99 for gp or regal.
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  13. #13 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buickman104 View Post
    I would go with raybestos professional grade. The ball joints are bolted not riveted on so they are easy to change in a few years when ball joints need changing.
    Personally I've never seen a grand prix/regal/wbody that ever needed ball joints, its always the bushings that go.

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  14. #14 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    I had a bad ball joint at 205ishK miles. Pretty sure original lcas though.
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
    01 gt z7 turbo tep trans zzp motor
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  15. #15 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by buickman104 View Post
    I would go with raybestos professional grade. The ball joints are bolted not riveted on so they are easy to change in a few years when ball joints need changing.
    I thought that then I bought some and they were riveted.

    I would get the Moog ones because IIRC the balljoint is better and can be greased.
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  16. #16 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GT Level Member outonthetiles's Avatar
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    I had the wbodystore high performance control arms with "heavy duty" ball joints. Ball joints lasted about 15k miles, and the bushings are beginning to crack. Very unimpressed with this product, especially for the price. Eventually I'm going to modify my subframe to accept H-Body control arms.
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  17. #17 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    Quote Originally Posted by outonthetiles View Post
    I had the wbodystore high performance control arms with "heavy duty" ball joints. Ball joints lasted about 15k miles, and the bushings are beginning to crack. Very unimpressed with this product, especially for the price. Eventually I'm going to modify my subframe to accept H-Body control arms.
    New ZZP arms are supposed to be less break-happy.

    Might be an option for you.
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  18. #18 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
    GT Level Member outonthetiles's Avatar
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    I heard that, but its still a DD and they're still wayyyy to much $. If I modify my subframe for H-Body LCA's, then I can have replacements for cheap.
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  19. #19 Re: Replacing LCA's... Best brand? 
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    I went with Moog on miner quality was good they had fittings so I could grease the joints and went in easy as can be my old ones had 298,000 miles on them joints were still good but bushings were shot but what they wanted to press the bushings ($50.00 a bushing) in and out plus I figured the joints would go sooner or later any way so got the whole arm I say moog is the way to go I knew a few people had fitting problems with the dorman
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  20. #20  
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    Well you all definitely made my choice of getting moogs and the40$ more per arm a lot easier. Getting ordered Monday and hopefully they will be in by friday so I can put them on Sunday

    Spectre Open cone+SD hood+Limo rear, 20% front+tinted tails+pioneer 6x9's+pioneer deck= My toy
    Tranny build this winter, then VS cam and headers the next, hopefully sooner...
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